Malbec for a special day, any day
Did you know April 17 was Malbec World Day? But Malbec is a wine to be enjoyed for everyday occasions.
The bold fruit flavours and mild tannins make Malbec a great accompaniment to a wide range of dishes. The classic pairing is steak, but Malbec is also a great match to full-flavoured pork and lamb dishes and even hearty vegetarian fare. One of the keys is to discover the style of Malbec you have in your glass. While there is some unifying characteristics of Malbec, notably its combination of body and soft tannins, there are lighter, fresher styles, and fuller dryer styles and a few in between.
Aromas and flavours can range from violet and cherry-like to blackberry and blueberry, along with spice, pepper and earthy notes. Argentina’s mountainous terrain provides a range of elevations and soils for winemakers to work with leading to unique variations in Malbec.
THINGS TO KNOW
• Argentina has a more diverse terroir then you might suspect. Grapes are grown from the North (22 degrees south latitude) of country in places like Salta to Patagonia (45 degrees south latitude). That’s the same distance as Halifax to Winnipeg, so we can’t expect all Malbec to taste the same.
• Argentina is home to the world’s highest vineyards. Some grapes are grown as high as 10,900 feet above sea level. Being so close to the sun but having very cool nighttime temperatures results in grapes with thick dark skins that are rich in both sugars and acids.
• We celebrated Malbec World Day on April 17. On this date in 1853, the government of Mendoza took the first steps to make wine production an important industry focus for the country, which led to the establishment of the country’s first agricultural school to focus on winemaking.
MALBEC PAIRING TIPS
• Lean cuts – Argentina is famous for its beef and certainly Malbec is known to pair with steak, but for many Malbecs you don’t need expensive cuts. The round tannins of Malbec makes it a great pairing to leaner cuts such as sirloin, flank, skirt and even ground beef. Reserve the more expensive striploin and ribeye for the fullest and driest of Malbec.
• Mix up the proteins – Malbec doesn’t have to be paired with beef. Try lighter and fruitier versions of Malbec with lighter proteins such as pork and even full-flavoured fowl such as turkey or duck.
• Add blue cheese – The bold fruit flavours of Malbec allow it to pair with full-flavoured cheeses such as blue-veined cheeses and Cheddar. Enjoy the pairing on its own or incorporate these cheeses into a savoury recipe.
• Complimentary herbs and spices – Malbec has an affinity to savoury and woodsy herbs such as sage, mint, rosemary, and thyme. Incorporate one of these herbs into a sauce or use them to add a crust to your favourite meat.
• Roasted peppers – Malbec can sometimes have a peppery tone. I love complimenting my Malbec dishes with some roasted peppers to connect the wine and the food.
5 MALBECS TO TRY
Domaine Bousquet
Organic Malbec
A great wine to try the fresher side of Malbec. As you can tell by the name, this winery was founded by a Frenchman Jean Bousquet in the early 90s. The vineyards are in the high elevation of Tupungato, part of the Mendoza’s Uco Valley. This organic and vegan wine really expresses a freshness and truth to the grape. Don’t expect oak but do expect some dark berry and spice on the nose with plummy fruit, fine tannins and some pronounced acidity, and a warming finish. This is a real food friendly Malbec that deserves to be on a dinner table. A heavy steak isn’t necessary here. Think
hearty vegetarian fare such as a platter of grilled vegetables.
Susana Balbo Signature Malbec
Thirty years ago Susan Balbo became Argentina’s first woman winemaker and later the first woman president of Wines of Argentina. Yet regardless of breaking the glass ceiling, the fact is she makes excellent wine. This wine nicely bridges ripeness and freshness, with a mix bag of fruit, spice and herbal tones coming through the long finish. This is a great Malbec to serve with a wide range of dishes or put in the cellar and forget about it for a few years.
El Esteco Blend de Extremos Malbec
Argentina is famous for extreme, high elevation vineyards. This wine exemplifies winemaking with ‘altitude.’ It is a blend comprised of wine made from regions within the remote Calchaquies Valley. Part is from the Cafayate Valley and the other from Chanar Punco. Both have some the highest elevation vineyards in the world. Expect a slightly more serious wine, with the structure you get from the poor soils of high elevation vineyards. There is a lot going on in the glass here with both fruit, oak and herb, pepper notes in abundance. For this one, try it with a grilled beef accompanied with some roast peppers.
Fincas Las Moras ‘Black Label’ Malbec
Fincas Las Moras did so much for the Argentinean category in Atlantic Canada. We have great taste here. Unlike many Malbec, made from grapes grown in Mendoza, this one is made from grapes grown in a very special terroir called the Pedernal Valley. I’ve been fortunate to visit this dry, almost desert like region, in the foothills of the Andes. The soil structure here is very complex, and the wines a great mix of power and elegance. Expect dark almost jammy fruit, plum and spicy, chocolate-like oak flavours with this one. Succulent and smooth and a crowd pleaser. Try this with some braised beef ribs.
Trapiche Medalla Malbec
Trapiche is gigantic winery, but it really has done a lot of experimentation in the vineyard and in the winery with Malbec over the past 30 years. One of their premium offerings, Trapiche Medalla Malbec, is great for those wanting a hint more structure in their Malbec. Aged for 18 months in French oak, this wine boasts black fruit, plum, pepper and violet notes. The palate is full but elegant, moderate tannins and mild acidity.
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FLANK STEAK WITH BLUE CHEESE BUTTER
• 4 Servings
• 1 stick + 2 tbsp butter, room temperature
• 1/4 cup blue cheese, crumbed
• 1 tsp rosemary, chopped
• 2 8-10 oz flank steaks, room temperature
• Pinch, salt
• Pinch, cracked pepper
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1 sprig rosemary
• 2 cloves garlic
Directions: Combine stick of butter, blue cheese and rosemary in a bowl. Mix well to ensure even distribution of cheese and rosemary. Place a large piece of plastic wrap on a flat surface. Place the butter mixture on the plastic wrap. Roll until it forms a log-like shape. Place in refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours. Season steaks with salt and pepper. Place a cast iron pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the oil. When oil is hot. Add the steaks.
Sear until dark brown (4 to 5 minutes). Reduce heat to medium. Add the remaining butter, sprig rosemary and garlic cloves. Sear for a further 4 to 5 minutes, while basting with the butter. Remove steaks and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes
before serving. Serve with sauteed mushrooms.
BLUE CHEESE BUTTER AND CARAMELIZED ONION BONE-IN PORK CHOP
• 4 Servings
• 4 bone-in pork chops
• 1/4 cup caramelized onions*
• 1/4 cup bacon jam**
• 1/4 cup blue cheese butter, room temperature (see recipe for Flank Steak with Blue Cheese Butter)
• Pinch salt
• Pinch cracked pepper
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tbsp butter
Directions: Using a paring knife cut a deep pocket into the side of each pork chop, making sure not to pierce the other side of the chop. Mix the onions, bacon jam and blue cheese butter in a bowl. Fill cavity of chops with equal amounts of this mixture. Preheat oven to 400 F. Season pork chops with salt and pepper. Set a cast iron pan over medium heat. Add olive oil. When oil is hot, gently lay in pork chops. Sear for 3 to 4 minutes. Flip, add butter and sear for another 3 to 4 minutes while basting with butter. Transfer to oven and roast for 8 to 10 minutes. Check internal temperature of the pork has reached at least 145 F. If not return to oven for more time. Remove from oven and let rest before serving. Serve chops with roast potatoes and peppers.
*Peel and slice a Spanish onion. Place 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a large pan set overmedium low heat. When butter is melted and begins to bubble add the onion. Sweat until the onions are golden brown (about 30 minutes).
**To make bacon jam, place 1/2 cup bacon in a pan and cook over medium heat until browned and rendered. Reduce heat to medium-low, add half of a small onion (diced), and continue to cook until onion is soft and cooked. Pour off a little of the fat. Add 1/4 cup brown sugar and 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes. Let cool.