Make the most of mozzarella
Most mozzarella is like most Pinot Grigio. It’s neutral, veering on bland and made in a factory. The perfect cheese for a society generally looking for less flavour than more.
That said, not all mozzarella, or Pinot Grigio, for that matter, are made the same. Some, the best, are made by artisan producers that craft interesting character, albeit mild, from fresh cow or buffalo milk, as is the tradition of mozzarella di bufala, from Campania, in Southern Italy. The fresh styles, offering remarkably creamy textures, are the perfect addition to a classic pizza or the base of a summer salad. Mozzarella can be aged, become denser both in texture and flavour, without ever being overpowering.
The making of traditional mozzarella is surprisingly fast, and when done by artisan producers, a feast for the eyes and the senses. While operating an overseas food and wine travel business, I was blessed to call the tiny village of Schiazzano, on the Sorrento Peninsula, on the Campania coast, home for weeks at a time. Here, in the midst of olive groves and lemon trees, artisan cheese and pizza makers come together to show hungry visitors authentic southern Italian ingredients and cuisine.
When picking mozzarella at the grocery store, veer to fresh versions, packed in water, found in the specialty cheese section. While most are large production versions, they better resemble the texture and flavour of authentic mozzarella compared to the plastic-like versions found in the dairy section. Better yet, source out a local cheesemaker producing their own variation of fresh mozzarella.
Making mozzarella is an artform by many cheesemakers but is surprisingly easy to make in your own home. This recipe from Epicurious. com will show you how:
HOW TO MAKE MOZZARELLA Ingredients:
1 ¼ cup water
1 ½ tsp citric acid 1/4 cup water
¼ tsp liquid rennet 4 ½ litres whole milk 1 tsp kosher salt
Directions: Start by combining 1 cup water with citric acid in a bowl until dissolved.
In a separate bowl, combine 1/4 cup water with liquid rennet. Pour whole milk into a large heavy pot, or Dutch oven.
Stir in the citric acid mixture and heat over mediumhigh heat until it reaches 90 F on an instant-read thermometer.
Remove pot from the heat, and stir in the liquid rennet, and continue stirring for 30 seconds.
Cover and set aside for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, the mixture should be set with a gelatin-like texture and pull away from the sides when you jiggle the pot. (If it is still liquid, let it sit for another 5 minutes).
Once set, use a long knife or large offset spatula to cut the urds: making sure to reach all the way down, make vertical and horizontal cuts at ½ inch intervals across the surface to form a criss-cross pattern.
Set the pot over medium heat and cook, stirring gently every once in a while, to avoid breaking up the curds too much, until the cured mixture reaches 105 F.
Remove the pot from the heat and set aside for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally
Dip a fine mesh sieve into the pot and use it to separate the curds from the thin yellowy liquid (the whey). Clump the curds together and drain off a much whey as possible. Discard the whey (or save for another use).
Bring a second large pot of water to just below boiling, about 185 F. Put the curds in the strainer and lower into the hot water for 2-3 minutes.
Wearing food-safe rubber gloves, fold the curds several times, then check the internal temperature of the curds. If necessary, return the curds to the hot water in order for it to reach 135 F.
Sprinkle kosher salt over the cheese. Working over the pot of hot water, gently fold the curds over itself, stretching as you fold. If the mozzarella gets cool as you stretch it, return it to the pot of hot water for 10-20 seconds, then continue.
Repeat folding and stretching until the curds become smooth and elastic.
To finish, shape it by pulling the edges in towards the base to form one large ball, or two smaller balls, or many bite-sized balls.
Seal the shape by placing the finished mozzarella in a bowl of ice water for 5 minutes. Remove from ice water and enjoy!
MOZZARELLA SUBSTITUTES
Burrata - While very similar to mozzarella, and like its cousin is made from cow’s milk, and the outside is in essence the same, inside you will find a creamy mixture of curds and cream. The best oozes out deliciousness when cut into.
Bocconcini - Essentially mozzarella but made in small bite size balls compared to the classic fior di latter. An even smaller version is known as perlini (pearl).
Provolone - Similar to mozzarella but typical aged a little longer (often two to three months but can be aged for longer).
Unsweetened mascarpone - The product of Liguria, these creamy, fresh cheese made from cow’s milk has a buttery, creamy, spreadable texture which is lovely over toasted bread but also often used to make desserts. Ricotta Salata and feta - While not Italian cheeses, when looking for a quick substitute work well.
CAPRESE SALAD
6 Servings
6 vine ripened tomatoes, sliced 1 340 g fresh mozzarella ball, torn 1 ½ cups basil, torn
¼ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/6 cup balsamic vinegar
1 small red onion, sliced
Sea salt & cracked pepper, to taste
Directions: Divide the sliced tomatoes amongst six dishes. Top each plate with equal amounts of mozzarella and basil. Drizzle the tomatoes with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Top with sliced of red onion. Season with sea salt and cracked pepper.
BURRATA, TOMATO AND WATERMELON SALAD 4 to 6 Servings
1 tsp garlic, minced
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp Sherry vinegar
3 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil 1 burrata
3 vine ripened tomatoes, sliced 3 cup seedless watermelon, diced 1 cup microgreen
Salt, and pepper, to taste
Directions: Make a quick vinaigrette by placing garlic, mustard, Sherry vinegar and olive oil in a jar. Shake to combine. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Toss tomatoes and watermelon in enough vinaigrette to cover. Season with salt and pepper. Place burrata on middle of platter or in a large bowl. Place watermelon and tomatoes around edge. Top with microgreens. Drizzle a little vinaigrette overtop.
Mark DeWolf is currently the creative director of food and drink at the SaltWire Network, director of marketing and communications of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) and pastpresident of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS). He enjoys drinking, eating, writing and talking about wine, beer and food.