The Valley Wire

You say dumpling, I say ravioli

- MARK DEWOLF mark.dewolf@saltwire.com @drink_east Mark DeWolf, @drink_east, is a nationally recognized sommelier, creative director of Food & Drink at SaltWire Network, and leads food and wine tours to destinatio­ns around the world.

The humble dumpling tells a fascinatin­g tale of cultural adaptation and shared human experience­s.

Originatin­g in China some 2,000 years ago by a physician who crafted dough-wrapped lamb and herbs to treat frostbitte­n ears, this practical yet symbolic creation has since transcende­d its medicinal roots, evolving into a cherished festive staple during Chinese New Year celebratio­ns and beyond.

As the concept of dumplings spread across continents, almost every culture on the planet has embraced and adapted the basic idea of filling dough with a savoury filling.

From the intricatel­y folded Japanese gyoza to the hearty Italian ravioli, rustic Eastern European perogies and the savoury South American empanadas, dumplings have become a universal expression of comfort food.

PORK DUMPLINGS 8 to 12 Servings

• 2 lb leafy green, such buk choy, kale, or collard greens

• 4 tbsp canola oil

• 1 lb pork strips

• 4 tbsp wine

• 2 tsp chili flakes

• 1 tbsp sesame oil

• 2 tbsp soy

• 1 tbsp honey

• 1 package dumpling wrappers

Directions: Blanch greens in boiling water for 25 to 30 seconds. Drain. Place greens on towels to extract as water. Place two tablespoon­s of oil in pan set over medium heat. When oil is warm, add chili flakes. Sauté for 30 seconds.

Add pork and lightly brown. Add greens, wine, sesame oil and soy sauce. Sauté for two to three minutes. Set a colander in a bowl. Transfer pork mixture to colander, and let the liquid fully drain. Add honey to bowl and whisk to mix. Place pork mixture on a cutting board and finely chop. Take a dumpling wrapper and run a wet finger around the edge of the wrapper.

Place heaping teaspoon of filling in the middle. Fold over and press to close with fingers. Repeat until all the filling mixture is used. Place large sauté pan over medium heat. Add remaining oil to pan. When oil is warm, add dumpling to pan. After two minutes, when dumplings are browned on bottom, add 1-2 cups of water (be careful as the oil may splash) and cover with lid. Steam for five minutes. Serve warm with the sauce.

PIEROGIES 6 Servings

Ingredient­s (filling):

• Dough (see below) *

• 1 1/2 pounds yellow fleshed potatoes, peeled, 1/2-inch dice, boiled until tender

• 2 tbsp butter

• 1 onion, finely chopped

• 4 oz Cheddar, grated

• 1/2 tsp salt

• 1 tsp pepper

• Fresh dill, chopped, for garnish

Directions: Place a sauté pan over medium heat.

Add butter. When butter is melted, add the onion. When onion is soft and translucen­t (six minutes), transfer to a bowl. Add the boiled potatoes, cheese, salt and pepper. Mix well, then mash until smooth. Let cool.

Flour a work surface. Split dough in half. Roll out until about 1/8-inch thick. Use a 3-inch diameter cookie cutter or mold to cut out circular shapes from dough. Reform the leftover bits, roll out again and cut.

Place a rounded tablespoon of the potato mixture into the middle of a dough circle. Fold the dough over the filling to make a half moon shape. Pinch edges of dough. Set on a parchment lined baking sheet. Repeat until all the filling is used.

Bring a larnge dpot of salted water to boil. Drop pierogi into water, working in batches. When the pierogi come to the surface (four minutes). Remove with slotted spoon and transfer

to platter. Sprinkle with chopped dill and serve with sour cream on the side.

*To make the dough, place three cups flour in a bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk together two large eggs, three tablespoon­s sour cream and one teaspoon of salt. Add to the bowl. Combine until a soft and pliable dough forms. Let rest, before using.

RAVIOLI WITH MUSHROOMS AND SAGE BUTTER

6 Servings

• 1 tbsp olive oil

• 2 shallot, diced

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 1 lb cremini mushroom, chopped

• Salt and pepper

• 1 1/2 tbsp ricotta

• 1 tbsp Parmesan, grated

• Dough (recipe below) *

• 1/4 cup butter

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 16 sage leaves Directions: Place a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil. When oil is warm, add the shallot. Sauté until soft (about three minutes). Add mushrooms and garlic and sauté until soft, liquid expressed. Season with salt and pepper. Strain and add to a blender along with ricotta and Parmesan. Blend until smooth.

Cut dough in half or quarters. Roll out until 1/4-inch thick. Pass through pasta machine, beginning with widest setting. Repeat, folding inside sides, passing through widest setting for three times. Next, pass through consecutiv­ely smaller settings until second to last setting. Layout dough (two pieces) on floured work surface. Add one heaping teaspoon of filling, two finger spaces apart, in middle of one of the sheets of pasta. Once you reached the end, place second piece of dough over top the first one. Lightly cup hand around filling, pressing down gently. Using a pasta cutter or pizza wheel, cut into squares. Alternativ­ely, use a round cookie cutter to cut out ravioli circles.

Bring a pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Drop ravioli in water. Cook for two to three minutes, then place in a colander. While ravioli is cooking, melt butter in sauté pan set over medium heat. When butter is melted, add the sage and garlic. Cook for two minutes. Add pasta to butter sauce and lightly toss. Serve immediatel­y, accompanie­d with more grated Parmesan.

*Place three cups 00 (or allpurpose) flour on clean work surface. Make a well in middle. Add four large eggs (yolk and whites), one additional egg yolk and pinch salt to well. Using a fork, whisk the eggs, slowly bringing in the flour into the well. Combine until rough dough is formed. Flour hands and bring dough together. Knead for 10 minutes until a soft pliable dough is formed. Wrap in plastic wrap and let rest for an hour.

 ?? CONTRIBUTE­D ?? A variation of dumplings in the style of Chinese Jiaozi and Japanese Gyoza filled with pork, greens and aromatics.
CONTRIBUTE­D A variation of dumplings in the style of Chinese Jiaozi and Japanese Gyoza filled with pork, greens and aromatics.
 ?? ??

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