Flat Rock aims for higher ground
It’s rare that you come across a product and you like its full line.
At your favourite restaurant, it’s reassuring that you can go in and order pretty much anything off the menu and you’re going to enjoy it.
That’s the way I feel about the wines at Flat Rock Cellars, where I’m consistently pleased with the wines, across the board.
“That’s the biggest compliment we can get, one of the things that we pride ourselves on,” said winery president Ed Madronich.
“We don’t discriminate on the vineyard or in the winery … We do everything we possibly can for every one of our wines no matter what price is it.”
It doesn’t hurt that the winery has one of the more spectacular views in the region, sitting high on the Niagara Escarpment, the vineyard flowing before you like a carpet as it points you in the direction of Lake Ontario and the distant Toronto skyline.
On this day, Madronich and I were joined by newly appointed head winemaker Dave Sheppard, formerly of Coyote’s Run in Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Sheppard brings nearly 35 years of winemaking experience to Flat Rock. Madronich said the hiring was done in a casual conversation. The two had previously worked together at Inniskillin from 2003-05. He recalled that Sheppard asked if he needed to supply a resume, joking that he was probably happy he didn’t have to rewrite it.
“For me fit is really important, and Dave has many years left in a great career,” said Madronich.
Sheppard said the whole idea of leaving Coyote had to be a fit for both.
“One of the things enticing me to come here was as much as I love making wine, I’m a wine fan.
“And no one loves a great value more than me.
“Historically, all the wines I get excited about are the ones that in my mind have over-delivered. Those are the gems, which I’m buying multiple bottles. If I love it enough, I might even wish that I made it.
“Your chances of getting something that over-delivers was always good here.”
We were all relaxed, sitting back in our chairs, but you could see the spark in Sheppard’s eyes.
“I’m going to go into my 35th vintage in Ontario, and I’m as excited as my first,” he said.
“You can never be complacent when you’re in a good spot. You want to strive to be better because everybody else out there is doing the same.
“To be able to push the envelope you have to have a winery that has that mentality.”
Sheppard began his career making Riesling in Germany and expanded with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay here in Niagara.
He said he’s excited returning to his roots with the same varietals that are made at Flat Rock.
While Flat Rock already has a solid lineup, Madronich always asks his winemaker to try something new every year.
“I insist they get out of their comfort zone, but it has to be well thought out, and usually it works out to the positive.”
Madronich hints that they might try Gamay, a grape that is making strides in popularity here in Niagara.
“We want to take what Mother Nature gives us and give it its best expression, beautiful natural acidity, beautiful fruit and well-balanced. For me, the best wines in the world are the most harmonious balanced wines.”
Madronich poured a glass of the estate Pinot Noir 2015 vintage.
Still young, it is exuberant in its freshness. Lots of fruit and fine acidity to keep it alive on your tongue. There’s an underlying complexity that will grow over the next three to five years — if you can keep it for that long.
At $20.95 it over-delivers, just like they said.
“If you’re going to be a great wine region your wines have to age,” said Madronich.
“We need people to understand how special this piece of land is. There are very few places in the world that can grow really good quality grapes that make amazing wines that can age. This (Niagara) is one of them.
“The rest of the world is starting to figure out, but there is a cultural bias, we don’t believe we’re as world-class as we are.”
Another wine to try is the 2016 Nadja’s Vineyard Reserve Riesling.
For me it was a standout. You immediately recognize this is a stellar interpretation of Riesling. I was not surprised to hear a week or two later that it won platinum at the Canadian Wine Awards.
And if having a line of great wines is not enough, Madronich has partnered with Shawn Till to create a brewing company. Search out Lager Shed Lighter, a flavourful brew from the Dundas area new venture.