Amaryllis — size does matter
While some people might feel intimidated by the sight of a softballsized amaryllis bulb, with its burnished, peeling outer layers, and a tangle of fleshy roots, I look at the same bulb and feel empowered — I know this bulb is packed with potential.
If you were to slice the bulb in half ( not for the faint of heart), you would see many tightly packed layers of flesh with a simple bud in the centre: it looks like a giant onion. Basically everything the bulb needs to produce a gorgeous flower is layered within this efficient package — all you have to do is add water and sunlight — you really can’t go wrong.
For many people, their first amaryllis comes in a box from the local grocery store. These economically priced kits include a plastic pot, bag of potting medium and a bulb, and, of course, a gorgeous picture of the flower. It’s a good place to start, but for the most impressive blooms, look for a vendor selling loose bulbs and select the biggest bulbs your budget will allow. Size does matter.
Look for bulbs that are heavy for their size, firm and unblemished. Ideally, they will also have fresh roots that look plump and fleshy rather than dried and string- like. Each bulb can produce up to three flowering stems, and each stem will have four or even five individual flowers that open in sequence. Individual stems also bloom in sequence, extending the blooming period over several weeks.
What can go wrong?
If your plant produces leaves, but not a flower stem, continue to feed and water the plant for next year’s flower. The bulb may not yet have enough strength to bloom again. With the right care, it will bloom the following year. If the bulb does not respond to water and light after a period of dormancy, feel the bulb. If it is soft, it may have received too much water and is rotting, throw it away.
Last season, my premium amaryllis bulbs produced three stems of flowers each with four or five flowers per stem. The show lasted for nearly a month.
If you decide to purchase amaryllis bulbs ( one is rarely enough), I would suggest potting them up in heavy clay or ceramic pots. If you stage the potting dates two weeks apart, you can stretch out your display over a longer period. That being said, I’ve found individual amaryllis bulbs respond differently as they come out of dormancy, and bulbs planted on the same day don’t bloom together.
You can start the bulbs in clay pots or in plastic pots and then pop the pot in a heavier, decorative containers once the flowering stems appear. A sturdy pot is essential to help to balance the heavy stems and flowers. Use a good quality potting medium, amaryllis will not tolerate wet feet, so make sure the container has a drainage hole and a saucer ( to protect your furniture). Amaryllis prefer to be somewhat pot bound, an 18- to 20- centimetre clay pot is ideal.
Before planting, I usually condition the roots by sitting the bulb on a sturdy coffee mug filled with tepid water, with just the roots dangling in the water. Remove any damaged or dried up roots before planting the bulb. Partially fill the pot with the potting mix and then position the bulb so that one- third of the bulb will remain exposed after you fill in the sides of the pot. Place the pot in a bright room, indirect light is ideal, and keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Turn the pot every few days to encourage the flower stalk to grow straight. The stem will stretch to reach the light if you don’t rotate the pot). A room temperature of 21 to 23 C is ideal. Amaryllis bulbs can take six to eight weeks ( or more) to bloom, so be patient and enjoy the process — it is quite remarkable to watch the plant develop over the course of a few weeks.
At blooming time, the bulb may need a little extra support for the flowering stem. Have a supply of bamboo stakes and twine ready. If the stems are just too heavy and bend, cut the stems and put the flowers in a vase. This may sound drastic, but amaryllis make beautiful, long- lasting cut flowers.
As each stem finishes its blooming cycle, cut it back with a sharp pair of shears. Nurture the plant like a houseplant, treat it to regular watering and fertilizing until the weather warms up. The potted bulb can spend the summer in a quiet spot in the garden; morning sun is ideal.
Stop fertilizing by mid- September and bring the pot inside by midOctober before there is a frost.
You can wash off the soil before bringing the bulb inside for storage or leave it in its pot. Stop watering the bulb at this point. Store the bulb in a cool, dark room ( a wine cellar is ideal) about 12 C, for eight to 10 weeks. A period of dormancy is required before the bulb will set flowers again. You may notice a flower stalk tip emerging. When re- potting, peel away any loose, dry layers, if it was stored without soil. Move the bulb to a warm room ( 21 to 23 C) and water when the soil is dry to restart the growing process. I’m trying this with two amaryllis that I’ve nurtured since they bloomed last winter; they will be moved to our cold cellar this week. I’ll keep you posted on the results.