Where there’s smoke, there’s yummy soup
In cold weather, I perk up simple suppers with a bit of smoke — that delicious flavour addition we associate with the grilling days of summer.
I would happily enjoy smoked or grilled foods every day. Ditto for homemade soup. Melding the two together proves a match.
Here are two soups with subtle smoke flavours from smoked proteins, such as ham, turkey or fish. They are sure to beat the early spring, cold-weather blues no matter where you live.
Part of the pleasure of eating well-made soup is the add-ons that accompany the bowl. At home, I think about swirling in flavourful oil or pesto, chili paste or chopped fresh herbs for another level of flavour. I think about crunch, too, for a textural element. Not just croutons, but fried onions, crumbled toasted chilies, roasted nuts.
All good soup starts with good broth. While I do take pleasure in simmering bones and a few vegetables in water, packaged broth in the grocery store saves time. I look for brands with clean labels, no preservatives and that are made with real ingredients. Check the freezer, too, as there are several good options there now. I really like to use the homemade broth sold at the local butcher shop.
Smoky Yellow Split Pea Soup with Crispy Anchos
Makes 6 servings
1 bag (16 ounces) yellow split peas
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 large carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise, sliced into 1⁄4-inch pieces
1 large sweet potato, about 1 pound, peeled, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces
1 celery rib, chopped into 1⁄4-inch pieces
1 large onion, chopped into 1⁄4-inch pieces
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 quarts vegetable broth or low-sodium chicken broth
2 small ham hocks or shanks, about 1 to 1 1⁄2 pounds (or smoked turkey drumsticks)
2 to 3 cups diced smoked ham or smoked turkey breast, optional
Salt, freshly ground black pepper Topping:
1⁄3 cup expeller pressed canola, sunflower or safflower oil
3 dried ancho chilies, cored, seeded, each torn into 4 pieces
2 medium shallots, halved, very thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, very thinly sliced 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
Grated zest of 1 orange
Plain Greek yogurt or sour cream, optional
Chopped fresh cilantro
Prep: 40 minutes; cook: 75 minutes
1. Rinse split peas in a colander and check them for stones or pebbles. Heat olive oil in the bottom of a large 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add carrots, sweet potato, celery and onion. Cook and stir, five minutes. Stir in garlic, rinsed peas and broth. Nestle the ham hocks into the pot.
Heat to a simmer and cook, partly covered, stirring often, over medium-low heat, until the peas are tender and falling apart, about an hour.
2. Remove the ham hocks, chop any meat on them (no fat or gristle) and return the meat to the soup. Stir in the optional ham. Taste the soup, and adjust seasonings with salt and pepper.
3. Meanwhile, for the soup topping, heat canola oil in small heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Use tongs to toast ancho pieces in the oil for just a few seconds, until they change colour and start to crisp. Drain on paper towelling. When cool, use your fingers to roughly crumble the chilies into small pieces.
4. Add shallots to the canola oil. Cook and stir over low heat until shallots are tender, about two minutes. Stir in garlic and cumin seeds. Cook another minute or so until fragrant. Remove from heat and cool. Stir in ¼ teaspoon salt, plenty of black pepper and the orange zest.
5. Serve the soup in warm bowls with a dollop of the yogurt, some of the shallotcumin oil and crumbled anchos. Sprinkle with cilantro.
Per serving: 480 calories, 18 grams fat, 2 g saturated fat, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 64 g carbohydrates, 15 g sugar, 18 protein, 242 mg sodium, 21 g fibre
Creamy Cauliflower Soup with Smoked Fish Toasts
Makes 6 servings (10 cups)
2 small or 1 large head (about 3 pounds total) cauliflower, outer leaves removed 3 medium (9 ounces total) golden potatoes, peeled, diced
1 large sweet onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 quarts low-sodium chicken broth (or vegetable broth) 1⁄4 cup whipping cream or crème fraîche 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste Smoked fish toasts:
20 slices (each 1⁄4-inch thick) French baguette, about 6 ounces total
2 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
3 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 or 3 ounces smoked salmon, crumbled into large pieces
Chopped fresh chives
Prep: 30 minutes; cook 30 minutes
1. Use a large knife to cut cauliflower heads in half. Cut out the tough cores and discard. Roughly chop the florets. Put chopped cauliflower, potatoes, onion and garlic into the bottom of a large (4- or 5quart) Dutch oven. Add broth. Heat to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer; cover loosely, and cook until vegetables are fall-apart tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Use an immersion blender to purée soup. (Or purée soup in small batches in a blender.) Add cream and cayenne; heat soup to a simmer. Season soup with salt and pepper.
3. While soup simmers, make the toasts: Heat oven to 375 F. Brush both sides of the bread slices with oil and place in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake, turning bread slices over, until golden and crispy, about 10 minutes.
4. Spread cream cheese over toasts while they are still warm. Top with a few pieces of salmon and a sprinkle of chives.
5. Serve bowls of soup sprinkled with chives and accompanied by the toasts.
Per serving: 316 calories, 14 grams fat, 6 g saturated fat, 28 milligrams cholesterol, 37 g carbohydrates, 4 g sugar, 12 protein, 447 mg sodium, 4 g fibre