Garnishes are key to pumpkin soups
It’s the season of the pumpkin, carved into jack-o’-lanterns, glowing to scare away Halloween goblins. Jack-o has been doing so for more than a century — though if you lived back then, you probably carved turnips.
Today, pumpkins are a Halloween icon, carved scary or as goofy as Grumpy Cat.
It’s not a goofy idea, though, to serve pumpkin soup this Halloween. Or one made with pumpkin’s squash cousins, say acorn or butternut. You may have a favourite recipe (if not, we have one), or you may use packaged. Regardless, a seasonal garnish can transform the orange bowl of warm goodness. Pepitas (toasted pumpkin seeds) are popular, as are quick-fried sage leaves. But for Halloween, you can step it up. Think about ingredients with sweet, salty, crunchy or fresh qualities. Here are seven to get you started.
Here are some variations on a Halloween theme:
Chili-lime popcorn: Toss 2 cups popped popcorn with 1 Tbsp melted butter 1 ⁄ tsp ground
2 chilies (or chili powder or cayenne) and the finely grated zest of half a lime.
Black bean-corn-pepper salsa: Stir together 1 can (15 ounces) black beans (drained, rinsed), 1 ⁄
2 cups corn kernels (from two ears, or frozen, thawed), half a red bell pepper, finely chopped, and one strip cooked bacon, crumbled; saute briefly in a skillet to heat through.
Mushroom duxelles: Spread duxelles (recipe below) on twoinch toast rounds, and top with shredded Gruyere. Float one toast round on each serving.
Sage-chili Parmesan crisps: a.k.a. frico, these crisps are usually just Parmesan; this version adds heat and a fresh herb note (see recipe). Float one or two on the soup.
Pomegranate-yogurt drizzle: Mix 1 cup Greek yogurt, thinned with a little milk, with 1 or 2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds and a touch of finely chopped mint. For a creepy eyeball look, dollop yogurt into the soup, float a small mint leaf in the middle and finish with a single pomegranate seed.
Pumpkin seed pesto: Garnish with a teaspoon or so. (See recipe.)
Pumpernickel croutons: Cube 1-2 slices of pumpernickel in bite-size pieces (or cut with a seasonal cookie cutter). Toss in a skillet over medium-high heat with 2 tablespoons melted butter (or more as needed) until toasted and crisp. Finish with a little smoked Spanish paprika to taste.
Duxelles
Combine 1/2 small onion, finely chopped, and 8 ounces fresh mushrooms, finely chopped (a food processor works well for this), in a kitchen towel; twist tightly to extract as much moisture as possible.
Melt 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter in a skillet; add onion and mushrooms.
Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is transparent, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste; sauté over high heat, stirring constantly, until liquid has almost cooked away, 4 to 7 minutes. Pour in 2 tablespoons dry white wine; cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until liquid has cooked away. Stir in 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh parsley.
Parmesan crisps
Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with a silicon mat or parchment paper. Mix 2 ounces grated Parmesan with 1 teaspoon (or more) finely minced fresh sage and 1/2 teaspoon red pepper. Spoon in 1 tablespoon mounds onto the sheet; press lightly to flatten. Bake until the cheese is melted and browned, 7-8 minutes. Remove from oven; cool. Transfer the crisps to a rack.
Pumpkin seed pesto
Drop 2 cloves garlic into a food processor with the motor running to chop finely. Scrape down the sides of the processor bowl. Add 1 cup shelled, toasted pumpkin seeds; pulse to coarsely chop. Add 1 cup each parsley leaves and arugula leaves; pulse until you have a coarse paste. With motor running, drizzle in 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, or enough to achieve a thick paste. Scrape into a bowl; stir in 1/2 cup grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese (or more as needed); season with salt to taste.
Pumpkin ( or butternut squash) soup
Prep: 5 minutes Cook: 20 minutes
Makes: 6 servings
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 large, tart apple, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pie pumpkin, peeled, seeded, chopped into 2-inch chunks, or 1 butternut squash or 2 packages (12 ounces each) cut-up fresh butternut squash
1 cup apple cider
1 quart chicken or vegetable broth, or as needed
1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup whipped cream, optional
1. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat; add the onion and apple. Cook until softened, 10 minutes. Add the garlic; cook, 1 minute.
2. Stir in the pumpkin or squash and cider; heat to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer, cover and cook until pumpkin or squash are tender, 20-30 minutes. Add some of the broth if needed to keep the ingredients cooking in liquid.
3. Working in batches, transfer the sauteed mixture to a blender; process with the lid askew to a smooth purée, adding broth as needed. (Work carefully, taking care not to overfill the blender.) Or use an immersion blender to puree the soup right in the pot. For a very smooth texture, strain the purée through a fine mesh sieve.
4. Return soup to the pot; adjust consistency with more broth, if needed. Season with salt to taste; stir in the butter until it melts. For a richer texture, stir in the cream. Variations Along with changing up the garnishes, you can change this basic soup formula almost endlessly.
Add a chopped fennel bulb to the onions. Add heat with fresh chilies or with chili powder at the end. Build layers of flavour with spices, such as cumin, curry powder or a touch of cinnamon. A bit of apple brandy or dry sherry would finish the soup with a soulful note.