Times Colonist

Chak-chak national dessert a hit in Kazan

- SAMUEL PETREQUIN

KAZAN, Russia — There are arguably more chak-chaks for sale in Kazan’s shops, cafés and restaurant­s than fans attending World Cup matches in the colourful city on the Volga river.

Traditiona­lly eaten at weddings in central Asia, the sugary treat has become the national dessert of Tatarstan, the oil-rich region that promotes itself as the “Land of 1,001 Delights.”

In the lively Bauman pedestrian street in downtown Kazan, vendors from the fast-food chain Tubetey, which specialize­s in halal Tatar cuisine, are handing out the dish made from soft deep-fried dough, sugar and honey.

“When I was a kid, my parents, my relatives, used to make them at home. I grew up with chak-chaks,” said Nourbek Batulla, a 30-year-old dancer, told the Associated Press. “I would not say that I eat chakchaks every day, but this is typically the kind of thing I bring when I’m invited somewhere.”

Chak-chaks come in different shapes, most often in mounds, pyramids or noodles. During the World Cup, they are on display on the shelves of dozens of souvenir and food stores as Tatarstan’s tourism officials use the dish to promote their region.

But it’s not just for the tourists. Chak-chaks are truly loved by locals. Expensive in the ancient times because honey was a very rare commodity, chak-chaks are sold for about 30 rubles in Kazan’s cafes — the equivalent of half a dollar — making them a very affordable pleasure. During the mild summer evenings of the World Cup, families sit at café terraces to enjoy the delicacy in the city located 800 kilometres east of Moscow.

In Kazan, one of the 11 Russian cities hosting matches, the debate over the best makers and recipes of chak-chak has yet to be settled. Batulla recommends Khlebzavot 3, a factory where customers can buy their favourite dessert directly from manufactur­ers.

A good place to try the sugary dish is the chak-chak museum, a private place located in a refurbishe­d 19th-century wooden mansion just a stone’s throw away from the Old Tatar district, on the left bank of the picturesqu­e Kaban Lake.

There, Lisan Yarullina is taking visitors on a tour documentin­g Tatar’s daily life before the 1917 Revolution that culminates with a degustatio­n of chak-chaks and tea.

“There are so many recipes,” she said. “Because it used to be a family-made thing, everyone has their own recipe, they are passed down through families. But the main ingredient is love. Without a good mood, it’s impossible to achieve something tasty.”

 ??  ?? Lisan Yarullina displays a traditiona­l chak-chak during the 2018 soccer World Cup at the Chak-Chak Museum in Kazan, Russia. Tatar dessert that is traditiona­lly eaten at weddings has become a symbol of the autonomous region known as the “Land of 1,001...
Lisan Yarullina displays a traditiona­l chak-chak during the 2018 soccer World Cup at the Chak-Chak Museum in Kazan, Russia. Tatar dessert that is traditiona­lly eaten at weddings has become a symbol of the autonomous region known as the “Land of 1,001...

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