The love story behind Free Solo
Love’s rocky road captured in tale of memorable ascent
Alex Honnold was preparing for the biggest climb of his life when he started to fall for her. She had come up to him after one of his book-tour stops, a buoyant spirit who seemed different from anyone he met on dating apps. She was outdoorsy, too, the kind of young woman who would not be put off by the fact he lived in a Dodge Ram ProMaster van.
So, even though Honnold was readying himself for a death-defying ascent — trying to become the first to scale Yosemite’s El Capitan, a 1,000-metre rock wall, without ropes — he invited Sanni McCandless, his new girlfriend, to move into his van.
Adjusting to life inside a cramped vehicle would be challenge enough for any fledgling couple. But shortly after McCandless quit her job in Seattle to join Honnold on the road, she learned their courtship would also be filmed. Honnold had just agreed to be the subject of a documentary about his quest to free solo El Capitan.
“It was the beginning of our relationship, so I think my concern was: ‘I wonder if this is going to put weird pressure on us as a couple,’ ” McCandless, now 26, recalled. “We were still getting to know each other.”
It helped, though, that Free Solo, playing in Victoria now, would be shot by Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi, husband-and-wife filmmakers whose relationship, in many ways, mirrored that of their film’s young lovebirds. Chin was one of Honnold’s longtime climbing buddies — they met as members of North Face’s athlete team — who himself had traversed Everest, Annapurna and Meru. While Chin made his name documenting his risky adventures for National Geographic, Vasarhelyi began her career working for ABC news anchor Peter Jennings while she was a student at Princeton University. The films she made were set against the backdrop of global turmoil — following Kosovo twentysomethings surviving amid the Bosnian conflict or a Senegalese pop star whose Islamic faith stirred cultural debate in Africa.
Vasarhelyi isn’t into climbing. She and Chin, who have a young son and daughter, split their time between Wyoming and New York. Chin doesn’t like the city and primarily lives in Jackson Hole, where he can be close to nature; Vasarhelyi, who grew up on the Upper East Side, still keeps the Instagram handle “mochinyc,” despite all the time she spends with her family in the Rockies.
It’s this very dichotomy that makes Free Solo — a National Geographic film — work so well.
“Part of the thing about me working with Alex is that I’m very, very close to it, so I have a deep understanding of the climbing ethos, the culture, how he approaches it, his capacity to make assessments and risk,” Chin said. “But Chai has a totally objective view of it.”
He was sitting next to his wife with Honnold and McCandless in a hotel room this month, shortly after Free Solo screened at the Toronto International Film Festival. Even though the group had already visited an indoor climbing gym in the city, Honnold seemed restless, spinning on an office chair.
Vasarhelyi’s main goal with the documentary, she admitted, was trying to understand what made the 33-year-old tick. When she was trying to measure whether she and Chin could make a film with “more than just awesome rock climbing,” she read Honnold’s 2015 book, Alone on the Wall. In it, he describes how, as a child, it was easier for him to climb without a partner — meaning without a rope — than to ask someone to be his partner.
“And I feel we all have that,” Vasarhelyi said. “We have something in our lives like that we work through. The idea that this incredible feat could somehow communicate that anyone out there could work through their fears was moving to me.”
The directors had concerns about filming Honnold’s ascent. And what about McCandless? Those closest to Honnold quietly worried that his budding romance would distract him from his mission. “Except for me,” McCandless said with faux enthusiasm.
“I mean, imagine you’re waking up to take on the most challenging physical experience of your life. If you wake up alone in a cold, dark van, you’re like: ‘I’ve got to get out there and ascend.’ If you wake up next to a partner and you’re cosy, you’re happy — why go? Why put your life at risk?”
For a while, even Honnold feared his girlfriend was affecting his focus. While training for El Cap, he took McCandless along for help and twice ended up suffering injuries. In the film, he says he considered breaking up with her as a result of the accidents.
“I never really blamed her,” he said later. “I wanted to blame her, but honestly, it’s more on me. Basically, I slipped, I fell, I hurt my ankle. She was there, but it’s not anything she did. It was just sort of unfortunate.”
“I was very much committed to learning: What did I do wrong?” McCandless said. “Could I have done something differently? How am I affecting you, and how are you affecting me?”
Sensing the tension in the room, Vasarhelyi chimed in.
“I think what the film was trying to say,” she said, “was that we were questioning Alex’s judgment for training with a novice when he’s training for this big objective. To fall in love with Sanni in front of the cameras while you’re working on the biggest dream of your life while this big production is around you — it was a lot.”
It was a lot for Honnold, sure, but also for McCandless. Free Solo doesn’t always paint the climber as the easiest person to date. He’s blunt — often to the point of discomfort — and withholding with his feelings. He doesn’t like “scheduled fun,” such as birthdays or parties, because, he says, “I like having fun when I have fun. I don’t like being told to have fun.”
In the film, when he and McCandless buy a home in Nevada, she eagerly takes measurements, excited to decorate the place. He stares blankly. When she asks Honnold if having her in his life changes his mindset about risk-taking, he replies that he appreciates her concern, but “I in no way feel obligated to maximize lifetime.”
On June 3 last year, the day Honnold became the first person to solo El Capitan, McCandless wasn’t there. She’d left hours before, driving back to Nevada because she knew he needed his space.
“It’s really hard for me to grasp why he wants this,” she says on camera through tears. “Why do you want this? It’s a totally crazy goal.”
“Sanni climbed her own mountain that day,” Vasarhelyi said. “To be able to leave that day must have been the hardest thing ever.”
The filmmaker — who said she’s grateful to have a creative outlet when she gets worried about her own husband’s risk-taking — said she often related to McCandless.
“Sanni is remarkable,” the director said. “She articulates her feelings and she also stands up for who she is quite honestly, and that was a wonderful foil for Alex.”
A few years into his relationship with McCandless, does Honnold still put climbing above all else?
“We’ll see,” he said, squirming a bit. “Maybe if we have a family someday or something, maybe I’ll value it totally differently. Maybe I’ll never find another soloing objective that I’m as passionate about. Maybe I’ll never solo anything meaningful again. We’ll just see.”