‘Cos’ lettuce just romaine by another name
Named for Greek island where it grew
Dear Helen: Is “cos” the same as romaine lettuce? Why are both terms used, and where does the unusual name “cos” come from?
R.M. These upright, cylindrical lettuces with long leaves are called both cos and romaine because the Romans, who were fond of green salad material, discovered them on the Greek island of Cos, where this type of lettuce grew abundantly.
The sturdy nature of the lettuces they found, and the plants’ general tolerance of heat and strong sunlight, perfectly suited the climate of the island of Cos.
Brought back to Rome, “cos” lettuce turned out to be so popular and widely grown that it became associated with the city and was referred to as “romaine.”
These days, gardeners have a large selection of romaine lettuces to choose from. Popular, especially in small and container gardens, are the miniature “Little Gem” types.
Dear Helen: My flower beds are constantly being overtaken by moss. We’ve added sand and then topsoil to our heavy clay soil, but still the moss persists. What will solve this problem? K.R.
Moss is often an issue in acidic, clay soils. Clay drains slowly of excess moisture and moss proliferates in damp conditions.
Sand is not helpful for breaking up clay and creating air spaces in that tight-textured type of soil. Sand tends to meld in with the clay to create an even more concrete-like texture. Something with larger particles would be preferable, such as sharp-edged gravel of turkey grit.
Regular additions of organic materials such as compost, leaf mould and manures all help to improve soil texture over time. In a previous garden with heavy clay soil I mulched in summer between rows and around shrubs and perennials with grass mowings and aged sawdust.
Scratched or dug into the soil in early autumn, these materials were effective at “biting” into the soil and opening up its texture.
A lighter, less tight-textured soil will drain more efficiently and help to reduce the incidence of moss. Raised beds are also helpful in enhancing rapid drainage of excess moisture.
Liming the soil (except where acid-loving plants are growing) will also discourage moss, as will reducing shade if that is an issue in your beds.
Heavy shade cast by trees and large shrubs creates conditions favourable to moss growth. Increased light and enhanced air flow can be achieved by “limbing up” shade-making plants; that is, removing low-hanging branches.
Dear Helen: A large plant in my sunroom is infested with scale and whiteflies.
Is there a systemic insecticide available that could eliminate the pests with one application?
M.K. I don’t believe that any of these insecticides are available to home gardeners. Systemics are applied to the soil and absorbed by the plant so that their toxins exist throughout the plant’s tissues.
As pests ingest the plant sap, they are poisoned. Using a systemic insecticide renders the entire plant toxic. That sounds just a bit dangerous for inside a home. So. What to do? If the plant has remained host to pests over an extended period, despite your best efforts to wash it clean of them, consider scrapping it.
I realize some people are extremely tender-hearted toward their plants and are very reluctant to give up on them, but when a plant becomes an irritating bother, you do have the option of replacing it with another.
If you choose to replace the plant, first give its emptied space a thorough cleaning. Vacuum well, and wash the floor and walls.
And isolate a newly acquired plant for two weeks before placing it in the sanitized area.
Monitor the plant for insect activity during its quarantine to make sure you are starting fresh with a clean plant.
Keep it healthy by removing any dead bits that may develop and wiping the foliage with a damp cloth to remove dust.