THe prices

Mains under $10 Mains $10–$20 Mains $20–$30 Mains $30 and up

immediate contender for the city’s most impressive dining space. Art deco grandeur aside, the club-jam soundtrack and female wait staff in snug-fitting shirts remind us that this is still very much a King West production. The menu includes some originality (mortadella on pizza!), but it often looks better on paper. The mixed fried fish app is pale, not golden, and it’s haphazardly piled onto the plate; and while the accompanying beet chips are a tasty and unique addition, most of them are bashed to bits. Main courses are good but unbalanced: rich and perfectly seared Arctic char comes in an also rich tomato broth, while the roasted cauliflower and potatoes accompanying braised lamb shoulder make for a plate that’s a little too, well, brown. 633 King St. W., 416-944-1932. $$$WVO

Souk Tabülè The Canary District’s new counter-service outpost of the Tabülè chain