Toronto Life - - Where To Eat -

Capra’s Kitchen ★★ 1/2

ITAL­IAN With 50-plus items on the menu, choos­ing what to or­der is al­most as dif­fi­cult as se­cur­ing a ta­ble at this bustling trat­to­ria. Even though this is Mas­simo Capra’s sixth res­tau­rant, the Chopped: Canada judge can still be spot­ted in the kitchen and on the floor, tak­ing self­ies with fans and sign­ing copies of his cook­book. The space an­chors a blah strip mall and could have ended up cold and dated, but clev­erly idio­syn­cratic decor touches—cop­per jelly moulds retro­fit­ted into pen­dant lamps, a col­lage of well­worn bak­ing tins left be­hind by the pre­vi­ous ten­ants—save it. Capra bor­rows flavours from the Mid­dle East here and there, but mostly stays true to his roots. Pizza parmi­giana, with folds of salty-sweet prosci­utto and a thin, blis­tered crust, is ev­ery­thing a pizza should be; and a twisted pile of al dente spaghet­tini is loaded with shred­ded crab­meat and pearls of salmon roe. Af­fogato al caffè—vanilla ice cream with a shot of strong espresso—is a light and en­er­giz­ing end­ing. 1834 Lakeshore Rd., W., Mis­sis­sauga, 905-916-1834. $$$WVAOE

Raw Aura ★ 1/2

VEG­E­TAR­IAN The raw, ve­gan and or­ganic menu hasn’t changed much since 2009 when it was cre­ated by chef Doug McNish, and cur­rent chef, RJ Cleve­land, is still plat­ing up flavour­ful, fill­ing and ridicu­lously healthy dishes. In this no-cook kitchen, noo­dles are made from spi­ral­ized zuc­chini; the tex­ture is ten­der and the veg­etable is mild enough to take a back seat to its sauce and gar­nishes. A de­li­cious bowl of yel­low curry is nicely sweet with a bit of heat, but black olive tape­nade pasta with cherry toma­toes is a tad bland and wa­tery. To drink, there are or­ganic wines, beers, and spir­its, though the of­fer­ings are few: the Pink Lady cock­tail is a per­fect sweet-and-sour bal­ance, made with freshly squeezed grapefruit and pear juices and a glug of white rum. As with most raw, ve­gan desserts, the ones here can be cloy­ingly sweet; de­spite this, the cheese­cake with caramel made from blended dates is de­li­ciously creamy. 94 Lakeshore Rd. E., Mis­sis­sauga, 905-891-2872. $$WVO

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