OUT OF TOWN

Capra’s Kitchen ★★ 1/2

ITALIAN With 50-plus items on the menu, choosing what to order is almost as difficult as securing a table at this bustling trattoria. Even though this is Massimo Capra’s sixth restaurant, the Chopped: Canada judge can still be spotted in the kitchen and on the floor, taking selfies with fans and signing copies of his cookbook. The space anchors a blah strip mall and could have ended up cold and dated, but cleverly idiosyncratic decor touches—copper jelly moulds retrofitted into pendant lamps, a collage of wellworn baking tins left behind by the previous tenants—save it. Capra borrows flavours from the Middle East here and there, but mostly stays true to his roots. Pizza parmigiana, with folds of salty-sweet prosciutto and a thin, blistered crust, is everything a pizza should be; and a twisted pile of al dente spaghettini is loaded with shredded crabmeat and pearls of salmon roe. Affogato al caffè—vanilla ice cream with a shot of strong espresso—is a light and energizing ending. 1834 Lakeshore Rd., W., Mississauga, 905-916-1834. $$$WVAOE

Raw Aura ★ 1/2

VEGETARIAN The raw, vegan and organic menu hasn’t changed much since 2009 when it was created by chef Doug McNish, and current chef, RJ Cleveland, is still plating up flavourful, filling and ridiculously healthy dishes. In this no-cook kitchen, noodles are made from spiralized zucchini; the texture is tender and the vegetable is mild enough to take a back seat to its sauce and garnishes. A delicious bowl of yellow curry is nicely sweet with a bit of heat, but black olive tapenade pasta with cherry tomatoes is a tad bland and watery. To drink, there are organic wines, beers, and spirits, though the offerings are few: the Pink Lady cocktail is a perfect sweet-and-sour balance, made with freshly squeezed grapefruit and pear juices and a glug of white rum. As with most raw, vegan desserts, the ones here can be cloyingly sweet; despite this, the cheesecake with caramel made from blended dates is deliciously creamy. 94 Lakeshore Rd. E., Mississauga, 905-891-2872. $$WVO