EAST

Brickyard Bistro At the corner of Gerrard and Greenwood, this 30-seat spot offers brilliantly

done French bistro fare with a twist here and there. From the open kitchen, chef Jason Kibyuk sends out crispy veal sweetbreads, their inner creaminess cut by a bittersweet parsnip purée, and pan-fried escargot in puff pastry come with an overthe-top bacon cream sauce. Two thick slabs of tender pork belly top demi-glace-braised beans; a pinch of tangy pickled red cabbage makes the dish a rather Germanic spin on cassoulet. Dessert also offers a couple of signature takes on classics, like peanut butter crème brûlée—perfect with a dark and bitter espresso. 1289 Gerrard St. E., 416-778-4440. $$$WVE

Bunny’s

Chef Rodney Bowers has turned his first venture, Hey Meatball, into Bunny’s, a moody 30-seat room decorated with all things rabbit (including a few pieces of somewhat macabre art). The food here is, for Bowers, a return to finer fare. A slab of brûléed chicken liver pâté is balanced beautifully with onion jam and fresh blueberries, and a tasty, though underdressed, wholeleaf caesar salad is adorned with big and delightfully chewy lardons, croutons, hardcooked egg and shaved parm. With a golf ball–size knob of gorgonzola butter on top, the flatiron steak is rare inside, nicely charred outside; it sits in a pool of buttery potato purée with a side of bitter greens to cut through all the decadence. The wine list is short but well chosen, and there are a few house cocktails, like the Pink Bunny, a sweet play on a classic French martini. 912 Queen St. E., 647-340-6439. $$$VAE

Gare de L’Est Brasserie

Executive chef John Sinopoli’s allday brasserie beside the new Leslieville theatre Streetcar Crowsnest wears its Gallic heart on its sleeve, and at dinner, all the greatest hits are on display: tartare, confit, frites. A foie gras torchon deftly balances richness with sweet sharpness. In season, tomatoes are sliced, diced and plated alongside cucumbers, both fresh and pickled, avocado mousse, and mint, but for all the action on the plate, the flavours never jell. Trout almandine with haricots verts and a supple beurre blanc shows a surer hand from the kitchen, and steak frites features a crusty, pan-seared culotte alongside pencilsize fries that have wisely taken their cue from McD’s. Strong work from the bartenders gives the lounge real authority. 1190 Dundas St. E., 416-792-1626. $$$OVN

Pomarosa Coffee Shop and Kitchen

In the tiny kitchen behind the counter of this new Danforth café, a sousvide machine swirls warm water around vac-packs of luscious pulled pork, tender beef, perfectly poached eggs and roasted cauliflower—all waiting to fill toasted arepas. The carnitas, a delicious mess of marinated, 12-hour slow-cooked pork loin, is dressed with pickled watermelon and creamy cheese—depending on the arepa and the day, queso fresco, mozzarella or cheddar may show up, along with avocado, pico de gallo, cilantro, lime crema and avocado aïoli. A delightful veggie version is bulging at the seams with roasted cauliflower and chewy hibiscus flower blossoms—sounds wild, tastes delicious. Sesame seed–based horchata, served hot or cold with a shot of Pilot espresso, is a delightful sip. 1506 Danforth Ave., 416-462-2945. $$V

Poor Romeo

Last year, Pinkerton’s helped launch a culinary renaissance around Gerrard and Jones with its Asian-inspired small plates, and now it has a brand-new, allAmerican sister spot right across the street. The noisy, narrow joint, with its exposed brick, worn barn wood, vinyl on display and tightly packed high-top tables, looks more bar than restaurant—helped no doubt by the wide-screen TVs and number of craft beers on tap. The menu is a mix of comfort-food classics with Tex-Mex leanings, but it’s all a bit hit or miss: beautifully cooked bavette is accompanied by barely seared brussels spouts, and dry fried chicken is easily disrobed of its batter. A Big Mac–inspired smashed burger, however, is bang on. Unique, well-crafted cocktails include the Beast of Bourbon, a shandy riff built with bourbon, lemon simple syrup and Molson Stock Ale—for that requisite hipster touch. 1029 Gerrard St. E., no phone. $$N