UPTOWN

Cano

Between its location on a lacklustre strip of St. Clair West near Dufferin and its uninspiring room—an industrial-rustic mishmash that mixes exposed ducts with worn barn wood, mid-century modern chairs and unsightly floor tiles—Cano may not give prospective diners the confidence to come in. That, however, would be a misstep, as Cano’s kitchen is serious about its well-made, unexpectedly elegant dishes. Arancini—crispy fried rice balls stuffed with peas, fontina, and a beef, veal and pork ragoût—make for an excellent starter. The kitchen’s take on penne alla vodka comes in a velvety rosé sauce studded with crispy pancetta, while the gnudi con funghi, pillowy ricotta dumplings with sautéed wild mushrooms in a rich truffle cream, might be winter’s perfect comfort food. 1108 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-901-3655. $$$OWVE

Fat Lamb Kouzina

Some of the very best Greek food in Toronto comes from this hole-in-the-wall a few blocks north of Yonge and Bloor. Affable owners Vera Tzoulas and Christopher Priftis make pita daily; craft benchmark tzatziki with pressed Greek yogurt, cucumber and fresh dill; and use imported Cretan olive oil and honey in their hearty, flavour-packed fare. Primarily a takeout spot, Fat Lamb targets the lunch crowd, drawn in for the soft cheese–stuffed savoury pies, fresh salads, and gyro wraps built on exceptional pita and stuffed with tzatziki, chopped tomatoes, red onion, parsley and a choice of locally sourced, slowroasted lamb or pork, grilled eggplant or bifteki—a beef and veal burger-like concoction. 874 Yonge St., 416-301-7888. $$V

Grano

Of the midtown institutions still dotting the strip of Yonge near Eglinton, few are as loved as Grano, three decades old and spread out over a series of homey dining rooms (and a serene garden terrace). This is relaxed dining at a civilized pace, meaning most meals here start with a collection of antipasti and greens, like the spinach salad with thin triangles of friulano cheese and seared pear slices, dressed in a honey, fig and mustard vinaigrette. The cavatelli, a kitchen sink–type dish crafted from slices of grilled pork sausage, sautéed swiss chard and grilled corn in a purée of artichoke, mint and garlic, is exceptional. Knowledgable and personable staff explain the intricacies of each dish while making wine recommendations. 2035 Yonge St., 416-440-1986. $$$V

Kasa Moto

Among the scores of swanky establishments in Yorkville, few are as ambitious as Kasa Moto. Owned and operated by the Chase Hospitality Group, it’s no surprise that the sprawling space outfitted with marble and koi pond murals is a looker. The menu got a recent revamp from Montreal’s Antonio Park (Park, Lavanderia) and his leadership has, for the most part, helped refine the offerings. So while maki rolls, though ornate and well executed, are barely better than the ones you’d find at an Annex sushi joint, oceanfresh sashimi and nigiri are so good it’s easy to forgive the elevator music being played on repeat. Excellent cocktails, like the Origami in Flight, made with bourbon, kumquat cordial, green Chartreuse and lemon, keep the party going long after the last California roll has been served. 115 Yorkville Ave., 647-348-7000. $$$$OV

Mayrik

Mayrik means mother in Armenian, and though the food at this uptown spot is a celebration of chef Sebouh Yacoubian’s late mom, there’s nothing homey about the complex flavours or sophisticated presentation. Here, tabbouleh is almost all parsley (with a few bits of tomato and bulgur), coarsely chopped and doused in sharp lemon juice and buttery Greek olive oil—it works best as a condiment, to be eaten with everything else on the menu. It’s all meant for sharing, so even mains arrive at the table already cut into pieces, including half of a roast Quebec Voltigeurs chicken, dressed with creamy garlic labneh, fresh lemon and more of that excellent olive oil. 1580 Bayview Ave., 416-483-0922. OV