Toronto Star

Wedding-worthy bubbly that won’t bankrupt the bride

With real champagne costing up to $300 a bottle, here are some affordable alternativ­es to serve your guests

- GORD STIMMELL WINE CRITIC

With June weddings nigh, Champagne bubbles into festive existence.

However, real Champagne from that region runs $40 to $300 a bottle. That’s OK for the bride and groom’s families, but expensive to nourish a tent full of wedding guests.

Our bargain sparkling discovery is also made in France, using the same pricey methods but a fraction of the price. Kuhlmann-Platz Rosé Crémant D’Alsace (#400788, $18.95, 90) is a perfect pink treasure to marry with wedding parties, showing lovely cherry blossoms and strawberry finesse.

Another Alsatian winner in the latest Vintages release is the lightly priced and styled Pierre Sparr Réserve 2013 Sylvaner (#408179, $13.95, 89+), with its floral peach, jasmine and citrus fruit. Not quite as world class as the Sparr Pinot Gris extolled in my bottle selections, but a best-buy white nonetheles­s.

A superb white from Burgundy, the land of chardonnay, is also terrific. And it’s sauvignon blanc! William Fèvre 2013 Saint-Bris (#626523, $20.95, 90+) is stellar, with long mineral rich grapefruit, citrus zest and white flower notes.

Saint-Bris is the only spot where S.B. is allowed in Burgundy. I was there when the first whites were tasted in 2003 and they were dull, sour creatures. The Fèvre shows how far they have evolved.

Turning to luxury reds, the Alexander Valley in Sonoma has long been a hidden source for stunners. Frei Brothers Reserve 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (#38075, $26.95, 91) is saturated with black fruits. Reserve for a steak dinner party.

Not far away, from the San Francisco Bay appellatio­n, another Lotusland cab is killer as well. Wente Vineyards Charles Wetmore 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (#963397, $24.95, 91) brims with lavish blackberry, black cherry, smoked oak, black olive, blueberry, vanilla and chocolate layers. Talk about multi-dimensiona­l.

My highest rated reds? Convento 2005 San Francisco (#206409, $23.95, 92) is still young and a Spanish gem. Plum, leather, blueberry, mocha, cherry and vanilla bean notes from the Ribera del Duero region, a mainly old vine tempranill­o knockout.

At the peak of the Vintages release is the classic E. Guigal 2009 Châteauneu­fdu-Pape (#727503, $58.95, 93+). It has oodles of mocha, violets, plums, cigarbox, sandalwood spice and black cherry complexity.

This is elegant yet powerful, world class in a glass. stimmell@sympatico.ca

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