Toronto Star

Paris museum displays scents of history

One-time lewd theatre turned into monument to all things perfume

- THOMAS ADAMSON THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

PARIS— The floral scents wafted into the 19th-century Parisian courtyard Friday outside the launch of famed French perfumer Fragonard’s first flagship perfume museum.

The sprawling building — once home to a lewd Parisian theatre before later becoming a chic velodrome — was renovated for two years to showcase the unique history and techniques behind the creation of perfume.

“The idea is to share our savoirfair­e. It makes everyone dream. France is reputed for perfume, so our aim is to share the treasures we have accumulate­d,” said Agnes Costa Webster, great-granddaugh­ter of Fragonard founder Jean-François Costa, who delved into the family’s vast collection­s to create the museum.

She unearthed hundreds of art objects, exotic vials, age-old distilleri­es and olfactory devices that are now presented to the public, many for the first time, alongside black-and-white archive footage.

Aside from the history, a new major museum — now among several other smaller museums in Paris dedicated to scents — demonstrat­es both perfume’s increased popularity and its status as the financial backbone of today’s globalized luxury industry.

“There are marvels in the contempora­ry perfumery creation,” Costa Webster said.

“I think this is an art which will never end.”

The museum shows the twists of fate and history that shaped the olfactory art form.

Vials and trinkets trace how perfume went out of fashion in the Middle Ages but reached a new high in the 15th century, when Frenchmen, fearful of diseases in the water, refrained from washing and relied on perfume to hide bodily odours.

By the 18th century, trendsette­r Marie Antoinette was dictating what scents were in vogue — she preferred floral notes — and bottles reached the height of ostentatio­n.

One scent bottle from England had delicate gold and crystal dating from 1760.

 ?? MICHEL EULER PHOTOS/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? A “Clamart” perfume bottle, designed by René Lalique in 1926, is one of the many exotic, ostentatio­us vials on display at the Fragonard perfume museum in Paris.
MICHEL EULER PHOTOS/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS A “Clamart” perfume bottle, designed by René Lalique in 1926, is one of the many exotic, ostentatio­us vials on display at the Fragonard perfume museum in Paris.
 ??  ?? Vials and trinkets trace how perfume went out of fashion in the Middle Ages, but achieved new popularity in the 15th century.
Vials and trinkets trace how perfume went out of fashion in the Middle Ages, but achieved new popularity in the 15th century.
 ??  ?? Age-old distilleri­es are on display to the public.
Age-old distilleri­es are on display to the public.
 ??  ?? Agnes Costa Webster contribute­d family artifacts to the collection.
Agnes Costa Webster contribute­d family artifacts to the collection.

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