Toronto Star

New reasons to love Riesling

- GORD STIMMELL WINE CRITIC Ken Gallinger

Feathersto­ne Black Sheep and Flat Rock’s Nadja’s Vineyard are worldclass whites. But what grape? Riesling. Ontario Riesling.

The latest Riesling wrinkle in Ontario is creating separate lots of Rieslings from different vineyard blocks. For instance, Tawse has Limestone Ridge, Carly’s Block, Quarry Road and Wismer Lakeview.

More than a dozen Niagara Rieslings now are totally stunning. My latest swoon is Thirty Bench 2013 Riesling (see review with bottle). Thirty Bench also has higher-level Rieslings and some of these Small Lot whites are stunners. The winery offers Steel Post, Triangle Vineyard, Wood Post and its brand new off-dry Wild Cask ($30). Some might be sold out. It’s worth checking online.

For contrast, I recommend a comparable Riesling from Washington state. The Ste. Michelle is reasonably priced and, as with Niagara or the Okanagan, grown on lands once given over almost entirely to fruit tree orchards.

We also recommend the beguiling Thornberry Sauvignon Blanc, a classic Kiwi white that trembles with zingy character.

Our two reds are fairly eclectic. The Pendulum Red is from Washington State, like the Ste. Michelle. But it is grown in Walla Walla, a rural and dusty (less than 20 centimetre­s of rain a year) outpost that produces stunning and very expensive reds. This one is a blend of cab sauvignon, merlot and Syrah with the rare addition of tempranill­o. It reminds me of Spain as well as our final top Vintages release selection. The Valdemar is perfect for lamb. At my house, we debone the leg, marinate it for four hours and grill it on the barbecue.

I’m hungry now. Gotta go. stimmell@sympatico.ca

 ??  ?? Chateau Ste. Michelle 2013 Riesling $16.95 (Washington) Lime blossoms, candied citrus and peach beguile, and apricot, peach and a whiff of petrol thrill. LCBO #685651 Food suggestion: Breaded fresh fish fillets. Rating: 90+ Thornbury 2014 Sauvignon...
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2013 Riesling $16.95 (Washington) Lime blossoms, candied citrus and peach beguile, and apricot, peach and a whiff of petrol thrill. LCBO #685651 Food suggestion: Breaded fresh fish fillets. Rating: 90+ Thornbury 2014 Sauvignon...
 ??  ?? Pendulum 2011 Red $27.95 (Washington) Suffusive and eclectic Walla Walla blend struts mellow red plum, black cherry liqueur, raspberry, chocolate and spice elements. LCBO #46300 Food suggestion: Cannelloni with ricotta. Rating: 90+
Pendulum 2011 Red $27.95 (Washington) Suffusive and eclectic Walla Walla blend struts mellow red plum, black cherry liqueur, raspberry, chocolate and spice elements. LCBO #46300 Food suggestion: Cannelloni with ricotta. Rating: 90+
 ??  ?? Thirty Bench 2013 Riesling $18.95 (Ontario) Bouquet of beeswax, petrol, wet stones and fresh yellow apple, peach and tangerines. Gorgeous! LCBO #24133 Food suggestion: Veal schnitzel and lemon. Rating: 91
Thirty Bench 2013 Riesling $18.95 (Ontario) Bouquet of beeswax, petrol, wet stones and fresh yellow apple, peach and tangerines. Gorgeous! LCBO #24133 Food suggestion: Veal schnitzel and lemon. Rating: 91
 ??  ?? Bodegas Valdemar Inspiracio­n 2010 Rioja $19.95 (Spain) Cassis, blackberry, cherry and licorice set up black cherry, violets and black olives character. LCBO #423525 Food suggestion: Roast lamb. Rating: 92
Bodegas Valdemar Inspiracio­n 2010 Rioja $19.95 (Spain) Cassis, blackberry, cherry and licorice set up black cherry, violets and black olives character. LCBO #423525 Food suggestion: Roast lamb. Rating: 92

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