Toronto Star

Buffalo undergoes an urban renaissanc­e

Canadians love to visit the Queen City, but its upgrades now make visits even better

- LORNE OPLER

BUFFALO, NY.— Torontonia­ns love Buffalo. We love shopping its malls. We love flying out of its airport. And of course, we love those wings. But now there are two more reasons for Torontonia­ns to show some Buffalove: Larkinvill­e and Canalside.

These are two of the city’s hottest outdoor attraction­s that are bringing locals and tourists alike to parts of the city that had once been derelict and deserted.

“Buffalonia­ns are excited by what’s happening,” says Newell Nussbaumer, a community activist and founder of Buffalo Rising, the city’s premier online resource for news and informatio­n on all things Buffalo. That was not always the case. Buffalo’s fortunes were built in its manufactur­ing plants and steel mills. When these industries collapsed in the 1980s, so did the Queen City. The downtown emptied out. Businesses left, as did residents. Buffalo lost half its population.

“Today, we’re meshing the old with the new,” says Nussbaumer. “Many of Buffalo’s old buildings are still standing. Nineteenth-century factories are being converted into 21st century live/work/play spaces.” And more people are moving downtown than at any other time in the past 70 years. Nowhere is this urban renaissanc­e more notable than in Larkinvill­e.

Located on the site of the former Larkin Soap Company in Buffalo’s earliest industrial zone, Larkinvill­e is a new, expanding neighbourh­ood of restored warehouses and historic buildings centred around Larkin Square. The square is an open air gathering space teeming with social, cultural and recreation­al activities. Think Distillery District with food trucks, live music and South Beach-inspired patio furniture.

The brainchild of prominent local developer Howard Zemsky, Larkinvill­e’s success is a tribute to his vision for a revitalize­d neighbourh­ood and his determinat­ion to make it happen.

“Thanks to events such as Food Truck Tuesdays and Live at Larkin Wednesdays, thousands of people are showing up any night for great food, live entertainm­ent and family fun,” says Leslie Zemsky, the Square’s “Director of Fun.”

Two miles to the west on the shore of Lake Erie, stands Buffalo’s other go-to destinatio­n: Canalside.

More than eight hectares of parkland, promenades and waterways, the area is a celebratio­n of Buffalo’s maritime heritage. As the “portal to the west,” Erie Canal Harbor was a pivotal link in transporti­ng people and products from the East Coast to the burgeoning western territorie­s of the 19th century.

“Stand on Immigrant Steps, the original spot where, on a comparativ­e basis, more immigrants to America landed in the 1800s than at Ellis Island,” says Thomas Dee, president of the Erie Canal Harbor Developmen­t Corporatio­n, the state agency charged with redevelopi­ng Buffalo’s waterfront. “Or ride a paddleboat on one of the historical­ly aligned canals.”

Bike trails, walking paths, fitness classes, concerts, and winter curling and ice skating are just a few of the activities on offer.

And, if you didn’t get your Timmy’s before crossing the border, don’t fret. A flagship Tim Horton’s, complete with hockey memorabili­a, is located at the new Harborcent­er, in the heart of Canalside.

 ?? LESLIE ZEMSKY ?? Buffalo’s Larkinvill­e loves families. Free hula hoops are provided for children and children at heart who want to shake and shimmy the day away.
LESLIE ZEMSKY Buffalo’s Larkinvill­e loves families. Free hula hoops are provided for children and children at heart who want to shake and shimmy the day away.
 ?? JOE CASCIO ?? Canalside pays homage to the Erie Canal and the vital waterways that made Buffalo one of America’s busiest cities of the 19th century.
JOE CASCIO Canalside pays homage to the Erie Canal and the vital waterways that made Buffalo one of America’s busiest cities of the 19th century.

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