A hearty soup you won’t feel guilty about eating
When it comes to comfort food, few think of Nota Bene, the fine-dining restaurant frequented by Bay Streeters and opera patrons in the downtown core. But since opening in 2008, chef David Lee’s Yucatan hot and sour soup has been a comforting start to thousands of meals.
“We didn’t want the thick, cornstarch hot and sour soup you’d get at a Chinese restaurant,” says Lee. “I love that soup, but it wasn’t something we wanted our guests to start their meal with. We wanted a light, brothy soup during the fall and winter months that people could have for lunch.”
The hot and sour soup Lee refers to typically gets its spice from a thick chili bean paste and sourness from vinegar. Lee’s version is like a hot and sour chicken noodle soup. He simmers smoked jalapenos in chicken broth the restaurant makes from scratch using whole smoked chickens and adds freshly squeezed lime juice for a less in-your-face sourness. Cilantro and scallions are added for a bright, grassy note (think of it as a reminder of summer) and goji berries add a burst of sweetness.
Appropriate for the restaurant’s suit-and-tie crowd, orzo is used rather than long strands of noodles to make them easier to eat with a spoon. Lee says they tried glass noodles once but it got too messy. The result is a clean-tasting but hearty soup ideal for the chilly weather. You’ll want to eat this every day.
While making chicken broth isn’t a daunting task to do at home, it is time consuming. For the timepressed home cook, sous chef Trevor Stockwell suggests using storebought chicken broth (the ones sold in tetra packs at supermarkets are a staple in my pantry) and picking up a rotisserie chicken to really cut down on the cooking time.
If you want to make it more of a meal than an appetizer, add an extra 1/2 cup of orzo.
If you cannot find orzo, Stockwell says long-grain white or brown rice are good substitutes, but they require an extra 15 minutes to cook.
The rotisserie chicken provides enough salt for the soup, so season with caution.
“It’s so comforting and healthy, and people don’t feel guilty after eating it,” says Stockwell. “Some people order two portions and make it a main course.”
Nota Bene’s Yucatan Hot and Sour Soup
Star Tested
12 cups (3 L) low-sodium chicken broth 1 whole cooked rotisserie chicken, skin removed, meat torn into bite-sized pieces 1/2 bunch cilantro, washed, drained, and separated into leaves and stems 4 whole jalapenos, sliced into rings 1/4 cup (60 mL) freshly squeezed lime juice (about 2 limes) 1/2 cup (125 mL) dried orzo 3 tbsp (15 mL) dried goji berries 2 whole green onions, thinly sliced Salt to taste In large soup pot, bring chicken broth to a rapid simmer over medium heat. Add cilantro stems and sliced jalapenos. Turn heat down to low and let gently simmer 30 minutes.
Strain broth through mesh strainer. Press jalapenos and cilantro stems against strainer to extract as much juice as possible. Discard jalapenos and cilantro stems.
Bring the broth back to a boil. Add lime juice. Taste. Add more lime juice if needed. Add goji berries and orzo. Cook pasta until tender but firm, about eight minutes.
Reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Add chicken and simmer five minutes. Taste. Add salt if needed.
Divide soup evenly into bowls. Garnish with roughly chopped cilantro leaves and green onions. Serve immediately.
Makes six servings Test kitchen tips The best way to store cilantro: Cilantro will easily wilt and rot within two or three days if you just leave it in a bag in the bottom of the fridge’s crisper drawer. The best way to extend the life of cilantro is to stand the herbs in a small glass filled with about half an inch of water and cover the top of the herbs with a plastic bag. Store it in the fridge and you’ll have fresh cilantro for up to two weeks. Change the water every day and don’t let the leaves get wet. Keys to a good chicken stock: Save the bones from the rotisserie chicken to make stock next time. Stockwell says all you have to do is put the bones in a soup pot, pour in enough water to just cover the bones and simmer (not boil) for at least three hours. Many recipes call for adding vegetables such as celery, onions and carrots for extra flavour but at the restaurant, only chicken bones are used.
“Chef likes his stocks clean so you get the pure chicken essence,” says Stockwell. “When you start adding vegetables, it’ll muddle the flavour and cloud the stock.” Don’t over season: Soups intensify as they simmer and lose water content, meaning it can get thicker, saltier, spicier, sweeter and more sour as time goes on. Go easy on the seasoning at the start and save the salt and pepper for when you’re just about to serve the soup. You’ll also find that the flavours become stronger when you reheat it the next day.