Toronto Star

FRESH BITES CRANBERRIE­S

Grab a bag of these limited-edition berries and freeze them for year-round use

- CYNTHIA DAVID SPECIAL TO THE STAR Cynthia David is a Toronto-based food writer who blogs at cynthia-david.com.

Matt French’s cranberry sauce will be smoking this Christmas.

French, sales director and winemaker at Johnston’s in Muskoka, Ontario’s largest cranberry farm, teamed up with a Port Carling chef to throw homegrown cranberrie­s in the smoker for 30 minutes before mixing them with sautéed leeks and onions, a splash of his cranberry wine and local honey.

“The berries are still tart,” he says, “but with the leeks and smoke it’s amazing.”

In November, owner Murray Johnston raked the last of his 127,000 kilogram crop of cranberrie­s from their stubby vines.

With harvesting complete across the country, now’s the time to grab a bag or two of these healthy, limited-edition berries and freeze for use year-round.

French livens up sweet and savoury dishes with the crisp native berries.

“Think of the cranberry as our local lemon,” he says. “Juice them yourself or throw in a handful of berries to add a bright, crisp acidity — and a beautiful red colour — to almost anything.”

Beyond sauce, cranberrie­s are a natural in baking, cutting the sweetness in his lemon muffins and banana bread and adding a burst of deliciousn­ess when paired with ginger or chocolate.

Cranberrie­s also shine in juice and smoothies. Toss a few in the water jug at Christmas, and add their festive glow to sparkling wine on New Year’s Eve. Local rules

While American cranberrie­s rule our supermarke­t shelves, followed by Quebec, Ontario’s smaller crop pops up in independen­t stores or gets processed into treats from sauce to cider. Johnston’s customers include Stasis Preserves, Wildly Delicious, Touché Bakery, Algoma Orchards and Black River Juice. Look for his Muskoka Lakes cranberry wine in the LCBO, or head north for a Bog to Bottle tour any time of year. To your health

North America’s indigenous people have long prized cranberrie­s for their health benefits. As well as being a good source of fibre and vitamin C, research conducted by the grower-supported Cranberry Institute proves that cranberrie­s contain a particular type of flavonoid that prevents E. coli bacteria from causing urinary tract infections. Organic addition

Quebec-based Fruit D’Or, the world’s largest certified organic cranberry grower and processor, recently changed its brand name to Patience to highlight the care they take with their jewel-like berries, sold fresh and dried whole into soft, chewy morsels. “In the past two years consumers have really started looking for organic options,” says retail manager Marie-Michele Le Moine, who urges us to think beyond the holidays and use cranberrie­s year-round. Buy & Store

Cranberrie­s are available fresh from late September to late December and frozen for sale year-round.

Look for bags of firm, brightly coloured berries. Avoid brown, bruised or mouldy berries.

Frozen berries are currently the freshest choice, says French, since fresh berries may have been sitting on the shelf for several months.

Store fresh cranberrie­s in their original bag up to two weeks in the fridge. Rinse before using.

Freeze bags of berries up to one year. Prep

Discard discoloure­d or soft cranberrie­s. Rinse just before using.

There’s no need to thaw frozen berries before use.

Choose your favourite sweetener, perhaps honey or maple syrup. Serve

Add chopped cranberrie­s to morning oatmeal and smoothies.

For a DIY sauce, bring 11/2 cups (375 mL) orange juice and 11/2 cups (375 mL) granulated sugar to a boil then simmer 10 minutes, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add 3 cups (750 mL) cranberrie­s and simmer 5 minutes, covered, until berries pop. Keep covered until completely cool and refrigerat­e up to one week. Serve with roast turkey, chicken or duck.

Throw a handful of cranberrie­s in an apple or pear crisp, sweetening with maple syrup. Try a fresh, zippy crab salsa. Roast 2 cups (500 mL) cranberrie­s in 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil for 20 minutes to caramelize. Toss with cooked wild rice and toasted pecans.

Choco Clusters: Place clusters of 3 to 4 small berries on a parchment-lined sheet and coat with melted dark chocolate. Let sit until hard. Vary with nuts and granola.

Add berries to quick bread or pound cake batter.

Freeze and float in sparkling wine. Quick Cran Cobbler Unexpected holiday guests? Whip up this light, easy cake studded with sweettart cranberrie­s. No electric mixer needed! Adapted from Martha Stewart.

1/3 cup (75 mL) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for pan

11/4 cups (300 mL) fresh cranberrie­s, partly thawed if frozen

2 tbsp (30 mL) + 3⁄ 4 cup (180 mL) granulated sugar, divided

1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tbsp (30 mL) grated orange zest 11/4 tsp (6 mL) baking powder 1/2 tsp (2 mL) table salt 1/2 cup (125 mL) milk 1 large egg Preheat oven to 350 F (180 C). Grease or spray a 10-inch (24 cm) pan.

In small bowl, stir cranberrie­s with 2 tbsp (30 mL) sugar. In large bowl, whisk together flour, orange zest, baking powder, salt and remaining 3⁄ cup (180

4 mL) sugar.

Measure milk in glass measuring cup, whisk in egg then add melted butter, mixing well.

Pour milk mixture into flour mixture and stir just until combined and smooth.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Scatter cranberrie­s evenly over top, using all the sugar.

Bake 25 to 30 minutes, until cake springs back when lightly touched. Cool on a wire rack 15 minutes before cutting in wedges. Makes 6 servings. Tip: A 9-inch (22 cm) pan also works well, just bake a few minutes longer.

 ?? PATIENCE FRUIT CO. ?? Quebec-based Fruit D’Or, the world’s largest certified organic cranberry grower and processor, recently changed its brand name to Patience to highlight the care they take with their jewel-like berries.
PATIENCE FRUIT CO. Quebec-based Fruit D’Or, the world’s largest certified organic cranberry grower and processor, recently changed its brand name to Patience to highlight the care they take with their jewel-like berries.
 ?? CYNTHIA DAVID FOR THE TORONTO STAR ?? This light, easy cranberry cobbler is studded with sweet-tart cranberrie­s.
CYNTHIA DAVID FOR THE TORONTO STAR This light, easy cranberry cobbler is studded with sweet-tart cranberrie­s.

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