Toronto Star

Hot battle brewing over cold coffee

Coca-Cola, Dr Pepper, Pepsi are jumping into the market after a surge in popularity

- JENNIFER KAPLAN BLOOMBERG

The coffee industry is getting ready for its very own big chill.

Coffee makers from global giants JAB and Illy to smaller upstarts such as High Brew, La Colombe and Chameleon Cold-Brew are putting their brews on ice. They’re introducin­g high-end ready-made chilled bottled and canned coffee, betting U.S. grocery shoppers will embrace yet one more way to get their caffeine jolt.

Coca-Cola, Dr Pepper and other beverage makers are jumping in. And a Starbucks-PepsiCo partnershi­p, which has long dominated packaged cold coffee, is also introducin­g new chilled brews.

While sugary iced-coffee concoction­s, like Starbucks’ Frappucino­s, have been popular for years, baristas and coffee bars are seeing an increasing demand for more sophistica­ted iced espressos and lattes. Many now say they serve more cold coffee than hot — even during winter.

For the fourth quarter of 2015, Starbucks reported a 20-per-cent increase in iced-drink sales nationwide following its introducti­on of a new cold-brew coffee in its retail stores.

Now, coffee makers are making a push for getting more of those highend, lower-calorie and less-sugary brews and lattes on the shelves of stores like Walmart and Costco.

“When given a choice, people tend to make the healthier, better-for-you choice as long as it’s within a reasonable cost premium,” said Chris Campbell, the founder of Chameleon Cold-Brew, an Austin-based company with sales growing at triple-digit rates.

Canned or bottled ready-to-drink coffee is a natural evolution flowing from a consumer landscape awash with premium coffee at ubiquitous Starbucks and countless independen­t coffee bistros. The U.S. readyto-drink coffee market has been growing by double digits annually since 2011, and Euromonito­r Internatio­nal expects the market to reach nearly $3.6 billion (U.S.) by 2020. The global market stood at $18 billion in 2015, according to Euromonito­r.

Michael Butterwort­h, co-creator of the Coffee Compass blog, says the cold coffees on U.S. grocery shelves now “have a long way to go” in terms of quality and taste. “But there’s a proven market for these products and you’re going to see more and more of them.”

When the beverage industry looks to the future, it sees U.S. consumers craving ready-to-drink coffee at levels approachin­g those in Japan. That country boasts the largest such market in the world, according to Andrea Illy, chairman and CEO of Illycaffè SpA. Coca-Cola Co., which partners with Illy in the U.S. and other countries, sells more bottles and cans of coffee than anyone else globally, largely due to sales in Japan.

There’s been a recent burst of ready-to-drink-coffee deal making and product launches. Starbucks, which teams with PepsiCo for its grocery store coffee drink offerings, is introducin­g new sweetened and unsweetene­d bottled black coffee and cold brews this summer. The Starbucks-PepsiCo partnershi­p, which makes up about 75 per cent of the ready-to-drink U.S. coffee market, “can do more consumer education in a week than we’ll have in a year,” said Campbell, the Chameleon Cold-Brew chief executive officer.

Peet’s Coffee & Tea, owned by JAB Holdings, now sells cold brew canned coffee since agreeing to acquire Stumptown Coffee in October 2015. La Colombe, backed with funding from Chobani yogurt founder Hamdi Ulukaya, will be releasing its canned latte later this year in grocery stores around the country.

The drink, which foams like a hot latte when poured, sold briskly — 10,000 cans in its first hour — when offered online in March.

Last month, Dr Pepper Snapple Group, entered into a distributi­on deal with High Brew Coffee, an independen­t beverage company started by David Smith. For Smith, who’s counting on Dr Pepper for its “merchandis­ing muscle,” coffee is a second act. He co-founded Sweet Leaf Tea Co., which was sold to Nestle Waters North America in 2011. Smith discovered the virtues of cold-brew coffee while on a seven-month sailing trip with his wife and two young children a few years ago.

Crossing from island to island in the Caribbean, often at night, Smith found standard coffee wasn’t giving him the jolt he needed to stay alert. So he bought a cold-brew kit on Amazon. Though it takes 12 hours to make cold brew, it delivers twice the caffeine punch of traditiona­l brewing, and Smith could brew enough in his boat’s galley to last four or five days.

“A light bulb went off,” said Smith. “If somebody came up with a readyto-drink, shelf-stable, cold-brew coffee that was convenient­ly packaged, it would really be a great addition to what is available to consumers out there today.”

The resulting product, High Brew Coffee, hit grocery store shelves in 2014. Sales grew 270 per cent in 2015, said Smith, though he declined to provide dollar sales.

One of the promises of canned and bottled coffee is that it’s portable and durable and opens up the universe of high-end coffee to folks who may not live around the corner from a coffee bar, said Chermelle Edwards, creator of a blog called Coffeetogr­apher.

“Maybe you want to have a six-pack for your picnic. You don’t go to a coffee shop and buy 10 coffees for your party, but you’ll buy cold brew. It’s like beer, like craft beer.”

 ?? RICK BOWMER/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS FILE PHOTO ?? Although sugary iced-coffee concoction­s, like Starbucks’ frappucino­s, have been popular for years, baristas and coffee bars are seeing an increasing demand for more sophistica­ted iced espressos and lattes.
RICK BOWMER/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS FILE PHOTO Although sugary iced-coffee concoction­s, like Starbucks’ frappucino­s, have been popular for years, baristas and coffee bars are seeing an increasing demand for more sophistica­ted iced espressos and lattes.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada