BUFFALO BUILDS
Western New York city is pouring money into revitalization and nowhere is that more evident than along the waterfront ,
BUFFALO, N.Y.— It’s a steep and unnerving climb up a series of staircases, some spiral, and a final ladder to the roof of the decommissioned American grain elevator complex.
But when you’ve made it up those 10-odd storeys, all is forgotten as you catch your breath and then lose it again absorbing the panoramic view of a city using its industrial heritage for a dynamic future.
“This is authentic Buffalo,” declares Brad Hahn, executive director of Explore Buffalo. “You’re not going to find something like this anywhere else.”
Indeed, nothing says the urban renewal of a Rust Belt city quite like repurposing abandoned waterfront grain elevators.
You can climb them here in the Old First Ward’s Silo City (a.k.a. Elevator Alley), marvel at them from the ground if you’re afraid of heights, kayak in their shadow or admire them from a bike.
Buffalo, once the world’s largest grain hub with more than 50 grain elevators, is enjoying a renaissance fuelled by a multimillion-dollar waterfront redevelopment.
Rigidized Metals Corporation president Rick Smith owns the Silo City grain elevator complex and is turning it into an arts hub, with plans for a restaurant and education centre. As he transforms the space, he lets others use it for art and cultural events.
“The grain elevator itself is really the mechanical process and conveyor belt,” explains Hahn, whose non-profit group handles guided, historical tours. “The silos are the storage units attached to it. Today, everybody pretty much just refers to the entire complex as grain elevators or silos.”
The elevator we climb — following the path of the grain that used to arrive on freighters on the Buffalo River — was built by the American Malting Co. in1906 and closed in 1987. We weave our way through the Perot grain elevator before making our way down.
This year, Hahn hopes Explore Buffalo will lead 20,000 people on its Silo City and other city tours. He has had people as young as 12 and as old as 87 do the challenging Silo City: Vertical tour.
“This is authentic Buffalo. . . . You’re not going to find something like this anywhere else.” BRAD HAHN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF EXPLORE BUFFALO
“So many people in Buffalo know these buildings. I think there’s a real curiosity to see what’s inside. I think people are excited that they could be reused for a creative purpose.”
Back at ground level, we wave to Silo City caretaker Swannie Jim and stumble upon artistic director Kyle Marler and Flatsitter Media Arts Collective’s 3D virtual reality spirit journey White Buck inside another silo.
It takes two minutes to drive over to Mutual Riverfront Park to meet up with Elevator Alley Kayak co-founder Beth Bragg and Jason Mendola.
After years of having the Buffalo River practically to themselves for personal kayak trips, they started the company just last year.
“It was the perfect time in Buffalo to do it,” Bragg says. “Buffalo’s having this resurgence. Especially the waterfront.”
Bragg takes us almost seven kilometres, past Buffalo RiverWorks, a waterfront industrial property turned restaurant, music, entertainment, sports and boating venue.
Getting a good whiff of Buffalo’s famous Cheerios smell from the General Mills plant, we kayak on past Canalside, a massive waterfront re- development rooted in the history of the Erie Canal.
Bragg will regale you with historical lore if you want, but finds “people are mostly here to see the river and the silos from that perspective.”
When the kayak tour is done, it’s literally steps away from Gene McCarthy’s, my favourite Buffalo tavern for wings and beef on weck.
My final perspective on Buffalo’s waterfront comes during a bike ride.
It’s just a buck to hop on the Queen City Bike Ferry for a quick ride across the Buffalo River from Canalside in the Inner Harbor. There is much to see in the Outer Harbor, namely a lighthouse, wind sculptures, state park, beaches and beer gardens. The more urban route home goes past a nature preserve and over the Ohio St. Bridge near Silo City, bringing things almost full circle. I did miss one final view of the silos. Go to Canalside at dusk and watch the vacant Connecting Terminal Grain Elevator become a canvas for a permanent, ever-changing show that runs every night of the year.
The show has been dubbed “a beacon of light in a transformational time.” Jennifer Bain was hosted by Visit Buffalo Niagara, which didn’t review or approve this story.