Middle Eastern flavours spice up the ordinary
Turmeric, za’atar, harissa play starring role in new cookbook
Sirocco is a hot, dry wind that blows from East to West, carrying the warm, spicy and sultry flavours of the Mediterranean, explains food writer Sabrina Ghayour, which pretty much sums up the theme of her new cookbook, Sirocco: Fabulous Flavours from the Middle East.
The London-based cook and author blends Eastern flavours with the fresh produce and cooking styles of the West to give ordinary meals an extraordinary twist. The book: Beyond colourful is one way to describe this 240-page hardcover, which pops with images of crimson pomegranate arils, fresh green herbs and the brilliant oranges and yellows of sliced citrus. Sirocco ($40) is the kind of cookbook that’s designed to linger over, whether perusing the history of Mediterranean pantry staples, or savouring the photos that bring each recipe to life. The quote: “I find great comfort in knowing that I can always combine fresh produce with a little something from the pantry to make a simple meal a little more interesting,” writes Ghayour, who says memorable meals are all about learning how to use spices, flavoured oils or preserves you have on hand. The tester: I must confess that za’atar, harissa, sumac and preserved lemons were not on my shelf before discovering Sirocco, which is an ideal introduction. And for those of us who’d rather spend the summer days chopping in the garden than the kitchen, there are plenty of quick and simple dishes. Recipes I’m dying to make: Rose and spice-infused berries with citrus honey yogurt is an incentive to stop skipping breakfast. Afghani-style smoked eggplant dip followed by shrimp, broccolini, feta and almond salad, or citrus and za’atar chicken is my kind of supper. Especially when topped off with a dark chocolate, cardamom and espresso mousse cake.
Lemon, Turmeric and Black Pepper Salmon
Star Tested Ghayour calls this “literally the easiest recipe I ever came up with for salmon.” And on that score, it doesn’t disappoint. While this adapted version is roasted in a hot oven, it would also work well on the grill and is tasty served hot or cold. Garlic oil is easy to make, or you can get it at most grocery stores. Warning: don’t cook this while wearing your favourite T-shirt, unless it happens to be fluorescent orange. I learned the hard way that there’s a reason turmeric is a natural fabric dye.
For the garlic oil 1/2 cup (125 mL) extra virgin olive oil 4 to 6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed or sliced
For the salmon Zest of 3 lemons, finely grated 1 tbsp (15 mL) coarse black pepper 1/4 cup (60 mL) garlic oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) ground turmeric 2and1/4 pound (1kg) side of salmon, or fillets 1 tsp (5 mL) coarse sea salt For the garlic oil, place olive oil in a small saucepan and heat gently at medium low. Add garlic and cook 10 to 12 minutes or until slightly browned. Remove from heat, bring to room temperature and strain. Store in refrigerator up to one week.
For the salmon, in a small bowl combine lemon zest, pepper, garlic oil and turmeric and mix well to make a paste. Place salmon skin-side down on parchment lined baking sheet. Rub paste evenly over the top. (If desired, you can leave in refrigerator to marinate one hour or as long as overnight.) Season salmon evenly with sea salt. Roast at 475 F (245 C) for about 20 minutes, depending on thickness, until fish is cooked but still firm.
Serves 6. agordon@thestar.ca