SCARY GOOD HALLOWEEN BOTTLES
Sometimes avoiding black cats is justified. Case in point: Don’t go near that black cat-shaped bottle of Moselland Riesling on shelves now. Tastes exactly like sugary lemon gumdrops and nothing more. And Cuvee Mythique Halloween Edition, a French red sold with a cape attached? Vile, harsh, discordant and bitter. Frankly, instead of grabbing an overtly gimmicky bottle for Halloween, celebrate in style with a wicked wine with an all-black label — a current and raging design trend. I tasted a slew of them to find you five of the best 2013 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington (LCBO 460154, $17.95 in store and at lcbo.com) For a dark, brooding style of Cabernet Sauvignon with evocative depth, reach for this bottle. Aromas of dark chocolate, black cherry and vanilla draw you in, but the serious seduction takes place on the palate. Dark cocoa, cappuccino, stewed berries and baked custard notes swirl around seamlessly without the slightest hint of off-putting bitterness or tannin grip. The wine is dark and dry, primal and powerful, but cloaked in the plush richness that keeps you coming back for more. Almost scary good.
Score: 92 2015 Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Reserva Devil’s Collection Red, Chile (LCBO 436956, $14.95 in store only) This deep red wine teems with fire-grilled red meat, ripe damson and dark chocolate with a silky texture and warm almond finish. It’s not only devilishly good, but the range itself is inspired by a ghost story. Legend has it Satan haunts an actual wine vault in Chile called Casillero del Diablo, which translates to devil’s cellar. The legend was made up by the cellar’s owner back in the 19th century to keep thieves away after he noticed some of his wines had gone missing. Ironically, this wine is a steal.
Score: 91+ NV Tarlant Brut Reserve Champagne, France (LCBO 325167, $43.25 in store and at lcbo.com) It’s super rare to find a bottle of to-die-for champagne under $50 but here it is — with a black label to boot. If Halloween means dressing up the kidlets, carving the pumpkin, buying candy to give out and jumping up like a human jack-in-the-box all night long, you deserve this bottle — no question. It’s a classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with fabulously delicate bubbles that explode gently with scents of cooked apple, poached pear, freshly-rolled pastry and roasted nut. I’ll be pouring this Oct. 31st. Score: 93 2015 Yalumba Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia (LCBO 460667, $19.95 in store and at lcbo.com) This killer red slips across the tongue with lifted blackcurrant and blueberry fruit edged with crushed violet, roasted nut, warm bonfire and gentle iodine before tapering to a long chalky finish. The velvet mouthfeel is there, but without the tight-fisted weight and tannic chew often found in bigger styles of Cabernet. And the spike of acidity lifts the fruit — in other words, this is a Cabernet for Pinot Noir lovers. I tasted this with winemaker Peter Gambetta recently and he suggested pairing it with lamb — apropos for Halloween given the inherent beastliness of eating babies, no? Shudder.
Score: 90 2015 Riverlore Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand (LCBO 417600, $15.95 in store and at lcbo.com) Piercing aromas of kiwi and pineapple lead to a shrill attack of juicy tropical fruit laced with delicate pea shoots. Dry but fruity, this high voltage drop promises to keep you refreshed while you shell out goodies to the wee ones. And the label’s spooky illustration is perfect for All Hallows’ Eve — it shows a Taniwha (pronounced tanifa), the mythical monster that lives in deep waters with dangerous currents. The Taniwha is often considered dangerous and predatory. Boo!
Score: 90+