> WHEN YOU GO

Get there: Most people fly to Kona International Airport on Hawaii Island, but Hilo International Airport is an option. Either way, you will likely have a couple of stops along the way, such as Vancouver or Los Angeles and Honolulu. Stay: I stayed at Hilo Hawaiian Hotel in Hilo and Sheraton Kona Resort and Spa at Keauhou Bay (most of the resorts on the island are around Kona). It’s about 2.5 hours from Kona to Hilo. Active lava flow hike: The hike with Hawaii Outdoor Guides costs $179 (U.S.) per person, minimum age 18 and maximum 14 guests per group. They’ll pick you up from your hotel in Kona or Hilo, or either airport, for an extra charge. It’s about 45 minutes from Hilo to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Don’t pocket the lava: Hawaiians believe the island is still alive and growing and that the lava contains a special energy (mana). Lily Dudoit, who gives cultural tours of lava artifacts around the Sheraton Kona, says you shouldn’t take any home: “It comes down to one simple fact. It belongs here.” Do stop for poke: You’ll need some protein before your hike. Try the Suisan Fish Market in Hilo for poke — rice (brown or white) with two types of cubed, flavoured raw fish. I can recommend the mango habanero and spicy ahi. Snorkel, but not with the dolphins: Searching out dolphins to snorkel with is illegal in the U.S. (but not enforced much). You can see plenty of dolphins on your way to snorkelling with Body Glove in Kona, a certified “Dolphin Smart” outfit. Do you research: gohawaii.com/ hawaii-island