Two days in Abu Dhabi
While many skip it for the flashier Dubai, the U.A.E.’s capital is a glittering city that emphasizes Arab culture and hospitality
ABU DHABI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES—“Are you ready?” There were nervous grins in the back seat of the powerful land cruiser when guide Faizal Mohamed posed the question, expertly nudging our vehicle to the crest of a dune in the Al Khatim Desert. A brief pause and we were skidding down the steep slope, shrieking with laughter.
The 4x4 roller-coaster ride was part of a desert safari about a 45-minute drive and a world away from ultramodern downtown Abu Dhabi, capital of the United Arab Emirates.
Later, we pulled up at an Arabian Nights Village campsite to try on U.A.E. national dress and sip aromatic spiced coffee, after visiting a camel farm where the animals are raised for breeding stock, milk, meat — and beauty competitions.
At nearly four metres tall, hulking (and pungent) dromedary Danao hardly appeared a vision to us, but we were told the beast’s muscular legs, full lips and lovely eyes made him a shoo-in as the most gorgeous camel two years ago. And he acted like he knew it.
Tourists drawn to the flashy, over-the-top style of Dubai, about a two-hour drive up the coast of the Arabian Peninsula, often skip Abu Dhabi.
But the capital is out to change minds, presenting itself to tourists as a lower-key — although no less deluxe — alternative to its splashy sister emirate with an emphasis on the arts, culture and kid-friendly activities.
“Low key” is a relative term here. Everything about urban Abu Dhabi is glitteringly new, funded by rich oil reserves. Wealth is always evident, whether in the string of Maserati cars parked outside five-star hotels or the fancifully futuristic skyscrapers crowding along the waterfront Corniche.
Like Dubai, Abu Dhabi insists on being described with superlatives: “tallest,” “fastest,” “biggest” and “most expensive” crop up frequently.
“It’s like a secret. Once you discover it, it’s addictive,” 32-year-old Abu Dhabi-born Johann Joseph said.
He describes the city as he looks down on it from Ray’s Bar on the 62nd floor of the Jumeirah at Etihad Towers. Joseph, a new media specialist for Etihad who studied at Toronto’s York University, said the city stands apart from Dubai as a place where visitors can experience “Arab culture and hospitality.”
There’s no shortage of nightlife, either. It’s an Islamic nation but cocktail culture flourishes in hotel bars and restaurants. While white robes and headdresses (for men) and black abayas (for women) are common, and tourists are encouraged to dress modestly, I saw shorts and miniskirts in hotel lobbies and bikinis on beaches.
Chef Michael Hunter of Toronto’s Antler Kitchen & Bar knew a bit about Dubai but nothing of Abu Dhabi before he arrived to compete in Taste the World after winning Taste of Toronto in June.
He came in the top four, cooking a delicious spice-ash crusted rack of rare venison onstage, served with luxurious venison neck stew in a patriotic combo that had the Taste of Abu Dhabi audience clamouring for tastes when I visited in November.
“I loved it, I thought it was great,” Hunter said of the city. “I found it sort of like an Arab Vegas — very flash and a fun place to visit.”
He was impressed with the restaurants, most of which are in hotels and malls, surprised to discover after dining at trendy Zuma that “probably the best sushi restaurant I’ve ever been to was in the desert.”
Abu Dhabi is built across a string of natural islands, each with its own personality. Yas Island has the Yas Marina Formula 1 circuit track and family attractions including massive Yas Waterworld.
Saadiyat Island is the cultural and heritage hub and has stunning white-sand beaches, while Al Maryah Island business district has five-star hotels and high-end retailers and restaurants at the Galleria mall.
Abu Dhabi grows limited crops and imports products from around the world. Menus are likely to offer French foie gras or Maine lobster as well as regionally grown dates, which we sampled on a tour of the Al Mina fruit and vegetable souk near Zayed Port. The pristine and bountiful fish market nearby is also worth checking out.
You can easily experience Abu Dhabi in a couple of days.
Hala Abu Dhabi tour guide Mark Anthony suggested a city tour followed by lunch at a downtown hotel and the desert safari for day one, with day two spent at a beach, plus the mall or kids’ activities.
Public beaches are free with modest charges to rent lounge chairs and umbrellas. Saadiyat Beach Club charges 220 to 420 AED per adult ($80 to $155 Canadian), depending on day of the week. Hotels on Yas Island have a free island shuttle and free access to its beach club. It’s sunny and hot most of the year, but malls and hotels have aggressive air conditioning.
Etihad offers a two-night stopover program for people flying on with the airline, with most hotel rates under $100 (U.S.) and two-for-one tour deals through its excursion arm, Hala Abu Dhabi.
Popular with tourists from Australia, Great Britain and India, Abu Dhabi is still undiscovered for many Canadians, only about 36,000 of whom visited last year for work and play. Fewer than 400 did the stopover program. Linda Barnard was hosted by Etihad Airways, which did not approve or review this story.
Abu Dhabi grows limited crops — menus are likely to offer French foie gras or Maine lobster as well as regionally grown dates