SIX THINGS TO SEE IN TRANSYLVANIA

Throw away all your preconceived notions of Transylvania (vampires aren’t real, people) and discover this mountainous Romanian region so steeped in history and natural beauty it’ll make your head spin — but not in a creepy, supernatural way.

Sibiu: Holy Trinity Cathedral The first written record of Sibiu’s existence dates back to 1191, when Pope Celestine III acknowledged the German settlers who had made Transylvania their home and Sibiu their cultural hub. Ancient fortified walls encircle this mid-sized city, which sits near the country’s geographical centre, giving it a fairytale quality that’s common in Siebenburgen. The city’s Byzantine-inspired Romanian Orthodox basilica boasts must-see early 20th-century murals. More info: romaniatourism.com Viscri: Viscri fortified church Another must-see UNESCO World Heritage Site is the fortified church and fortress of Viscri in Brasov County. An unpaved road lined with mistletoe-covered trees and Roma hamlets leads to this Transylvanian village. Saxons built most of its multicoloured houses between the 1600s and 1800s, creating the effect of a lived-in time capsule. Viscri’s charm is undeniable but the jewel in this town’s crown is the preserved 12th-century church. More info: viscri-info.ro Sibiel: Zosim Oancea Museum This quaint country museum holds the largest collection of Romanian Orthodox glass icons, with more than 600 brightly painted panes. Father Zosim Oancea, a former professor and political prisoner, made it his life’s mission to rescue these works of art from attics and obscurity. Farmers and shepherds adorned the glass in the 18th and 19th centuries as a way to worship their sacred saints at home (going to church wasn’t always an option when tending crops and chattel). More info: sibiel.net Zarnesti: Libearty Bear Sanctuary On 69 hectares of fenced oak and hazelnut forests in Transylvania’s Carpathian Mountains, 88 European brown bears are living the life — one that’s very different from their years in captivity. While ownership of wild bears was made illegal in 2005, many remained caged and kept as attractions at hotels, restaurants, private zoos and even gas stations. Seeing these magnificent creatures thrive outdoors is thrilling. More info: ampbears.ro Sighisoara: Hotel Sighisoara You’d be hard pressed to find a prettier Transylvanian village than Sighisoara, especially in wintertime. Narrow cobblestone streets weave around a hilltop that has held humans since at least the third century BC. With a skyline decorated with 16th-century towers, the town is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At its heart sits Hotel Sighisoara, an ancient noble family’s home converted into a lodge-like retreat. Stop by next door to taste local organic wines at Teo’s Cellar. More info: sighisoarahotels.ro Bran: Bran Castle When visiting the castle author Bram Stoker used as Dracula’s home base, skip the touristy stalls selling “Kiss Me, I’m Type AB” tees. German Teutonic Knights built Bran’s first fortress in 1211, but it wasn’t until 1918 (when Transylvania became part of Romania and gave the castle to its royal family) that it flourished. It was Queen Maria’s personal residence, and she supposedly rode in the woods for hours with her handsome cavalry guards. More info: bran-castle.com