This will add a little bite to your food
Local grocery shoppers buy up thousands of pounds of the root during Passover
The cashier blushed as my distinctly phallic horseradish root rolled down her conveyor belt at Metro last week.
Apart from its suggestive shape, horseradish has been celebrated for more than 3,000 years for its blast of eye-watering, sinus-clearing heat.
When the long beige root is grated, the crushed cells release a volatile compound called isothiocyanate. Mixing the cream-coloured shreds with vinegar stops this chemical reaction and produces a condiment for meat, fish and vegetables.
Those of British descent may or may not have fond memories of horseradish sauce accompanying their Sunday prime rib. Toronto oyster fans have probably watched a shucker grate a blizzard of pungent shreds onto their plate.
Hailing from the same family as mustard, wasabi and radish, horseradish is also beloved by Germans, Scandinavians, Russians and Eastern Europeans.
Though its strength may vary, the fresh root is usually stronger than the jarred version with a sharp, clean taste.
As Passover approaches on April 10, this homely root plays a significant role in the two evening Seder meals.
To commemorate the bitter enslavement of the Jews in Egypt centuries ago, guests dip thin slices of peeled horseradish, considered a bitter herb, maror in Hebrew, in charoset, a sweet sauce of fruit and nuts before eating. In another Seder ritual, guests munch horseradish sandwiched between slices of unleavened matzo bread.
Wholesaler Ezio Bondi of Bondi Produce says the No Frills and Metro stores in North Toronto each go through about 1,000 pounds of horseradish a week during Passover.
It’s a hot time in the city. Buy & Store
About 60 per cent of the world’s horseradish grows around Collinsville, Ill., where the root is harvested in spring and fall.
Choose a firm root with no spongy or soft spots. Avoid sprouting or green-tinged roots.
To preserve the heat, wrap in a damp paper towel then a dry one and refrigerate for several weeks.
Keep jars of store-bought or homemade prepared horseradish refrigerated and use ASAP. As it ages it turns brown and loses its potency.
Serve horseradish in a glass or ceramic bowl as it tarnishes silver. Prep
Peel horseradish with a sturdy peeler or sharp paring knife.
Grate fresh horseradish just before serving on a metal grater, a Microplane or in a food processor. Beware, it’s 1,000 times stronger than onions!
Sprinkle on roasted meats before cooking to add a milder turnipy fla- chrein vour, or add at the end for a spicy finish.
Prepared horseradish: Peel 8 oz (225 g) fresh horseradish root and grate coarsely. Grind in a food processor with 2 tbsp (30 mL) distilled or white wine vinegar and 1-1/4 tsp (7 mL) kosher salt until it breaks down to fine shreds, scraping sides as needed. Stand back when you open the lid!
Add another 2 tbsp (30 mL) vinegar and a pinch of salt and pulse to a coarse paste. Seal in a jar or airtight container and refrigerate up to 1 month. Makes 3/4 cup (180 mL). Serve
Grate horseradish root over sliced tomatoes, hot vegetables and soups instead of pepper.
Glaze Easter ham with apricot jam, grated horseradish and a little Dijon mustard. Use with sushi instead of wasabi. Add to hummus or guacamole. Sprinkle on beef or pork sandwiches.
Add a little grated horseradish to mayonnaise or salad dressing.
Combine with sour cream, a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of sugar as a sauce for smoked fish.
Serve with scrambled eggs and add its zip to devilled eggs.
Mix with ketchup to create cocktail sauce. Add a splash to tomato juice. Add to mashed potatoes, meat loaf and the sour cream atop a baked potato.
For spring, blend horseradish with softened cream cheese. Spread on thin slices of rare beef tenderloin and wrap around tender-crisp asparagus spears.
Baste ribs on the grill with 2 tbsp (30 mL) dry white wine, 2 tbsp (30 mL) prepared horseradish, 1 tbsp (15 mL) vegetable oil and 1/2 tsp (2 mL) hot mustard.
Red Horseradish (Chrein)
Star Tested
Cooked beets help, slightly, to mellow the sharp taste of horseradish ( chrein in Russian). This classic Eastern European condiment is traditionally served with gefilte fish (poached, ground and seasoned) but pairs well with any firm white fish. 2 medium beets (10 oz/300 g), scrubbed 3 oz (90 g) piece fresh horseradish root, peeled 1/4 cup (60 mL) cider vinegar 2 tsp (10 mL) salt 1 tsp (5 mL) granulated sugar Trim beet stalks to 1 inch (2.5 cm) and place beets in a medium saucepan.
Add water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat.
Reduce heat to medium and boil gently 30 to 40 minutes or until tender when pierced. Drain. When cool enough to handle, slip off and discard skins.
Meanwhile, grate horseradish with aMicroplane, the small holes of a box grater or a food processor. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in vinegar, salt and sugar.
Grate cooked beets the same size and stir into horseradish mixture until well mixed. Cover and refrigerate until serving time.
Makes 1-1/2 cups (375 mL). Cynthia David is a Toronto-based food/travel writer who blogs at cynthia-david.com.