Can Jamaican jerk save a ‘cursed corner’?
It should be flattered by all the imitation — the jars of rub, the countless spice mixes, the claims that so many of the dishes are the real deal.
But, according to chef Adrian Forte, a native Jamaican whose childhood was practically steeped in this spicy food, jerk is only made one way.
“You smoke a protein with pimento wood and charcoal,” Forte says. “That is jerk. It’s a method. A process of cooking.”
For the record, pimento wood and the pimento spice (we know it as allspice) is from the pimento tree native to warmer climes — it grows in Jamaica, a birthplace of jerk.
When Forte — who is also behind The Dirty Bird, the Kensington Market fried chicken counter that’s become a franchise — makes jerk at his newest venture, AF1Caribbean Canteen, you can smell the pimento and charcoal.
You can also see it. It wafts in thick, flavourful waves onto College St. and reels in a crowd. Open barely a month, this bright, laid-back restaurant has already commanded queues of customers, some of whom have waited two hours for their order. “The waits can be looong,” Forte says, with a smile.
Since it’s only been a few weeks, Forte can’t talk quantities of Jerk Pork or Jerk Chicken that’s been sold. But, the spiced, smoked meat is such a commodity, he keeps a padlock on the hulking, hard-working smoker outside.
He also keeps the pimento wood, imported from Jamaica, under lock and key in the office because two bags have already been stolen from the restaurant, he says.
The jerk-centric AF1had been marinating in Forte’s mind for years. He would cook the Jamaican food all the time for friends, who assured him the recipes were stellar, but he figured they were “gassing” him.
Everything came together in December on a visit to his hometown of Cooreville Gardens, also known as “Ghost town,” in Kingston, Jamaica.
Cooking with his uncles, Forte was inspired by his boyhood food; authentic dishes, such as stewed peas, peppered shrimp and cow’s foot, all made from scratch. No canned coconut milk. No boxed rubs or spices.
“To come back where it all started,” Forte says, gave him “inspiration” and self-assurance.
Forte quickly signed a lease at 596 College St. That corner, where College intersects with Clinton St., is a busy bit of the downtown strip, but dubbed the “cursed corner” for the rotating door of failed restaurants that have graced the space.
Forte has no concerns. “The curse is gone!” he says.
The jerk is a mix of allspice and scotch bonnets, including other secret ingredients, that’s marinated for 36 hours and smoked for 12 hours.
Once it’s out of the smoker, the chicken and pork are caramelized in a pan with molasses, cane vinegar and more jerk marinade. You can feel the scotch bonnets ( in every bite and the sauces are sop worthy — thank goodness it all comes served on squishy, white bread. The coleslaw, tart, slightly sweet and creamy owing to condensed milk rather than mayonnaise, is the perfect cooling agent.
The coleslaw will even do the trick for the spiciest dishes, including the peppered shrimp; these B.C. spot prawn are fresh, plump, sweet and nose-tinglingly hot. But totally worth the pain of the first bite. Nothing in the world beats that scotch bonnet elation that creeps from your throat to your head. Email mhenry@thestar.ca. Watch chefs smoke and sauce jerk pork and chicken at AF1 Caribbean Canteen on thestar.com