Classic bags give Coach a fighting chance
When it comes to fashion, there is something buttoned-down and scrubbed of any trace of irony in the American approach that makes me lean toward the Europeans. On reflection, this probably applies to other aspects of culture beyond fashion.
But the windows of Coach have been grabbing my attention as of late, and not just because the American midmarket brand has been making headlines.
Earlier this month, Coach announced its acquisition of the similarly positioned Kate Spade.
This move, on the heels of the brand’s acquisition of Stuart Weitzman, would indicate that the folks at Coach aim to become the U.S. equivalent of European fashion conglomerates such as Kering and LVMH, and at a more accessible level.
Until now, this Euro-model is something that’s never flown on this side of the pond, and yet it might be the only way forward in today’s challenging retail landscape. From what I’ve seen in stores — particularly this summer’s witty collection of toggle-heavy bags that play on the brand’s heritage — I am giving Coach a fighting chance.
Truthfully, my reconsideration of Coach started a couple of years ago with the sudden reappearance of its classic bags in vintage boutiques. With ’90s retro minimalism back in fashion, the simple, streamlined Coach zip-tops and cross-body bags with their signature turn-lock fastenings originally created for the brand by the legendary Bonnie Cashin started looking right again. So much so that they became collectibles amongst those who weren’t even toddlers when these bags were first on the market.
Interestingly, Miles Cahn, who, together with his wife, Lillian, founded the Coach Leatherware Company in 1961, passed away in February (his death was confirmed by his son-in-law, the chef Mario Batali). News of Cahn’s passing, however, was eclipsed by the announcement of Coach’s latest ambassador, actress and pop star Selena Gomez, who in addition to having dated Justin Bieber and The Weeknd, has the unique distinction of being the world’s most followed person on Instagram.
(On Twitter, Ms. Gomez has 47.3 million followers; President Trump a mere 29.5 million.)
Newsworthiness aside, what’s really piqued my interest in Coach is the worldly attitude the label seems to have taken on under the creative direction of Britishborn designer Stuart Vevers.
As Vevers, who toiled at Louis Vuitton and Bottega Veneta before he was brought in just last year to “reset” the brand told W, “The French have chic. Americans have cool.”
And there it is, in a series of leather bags, clogs and accessories that uses a sort of industrial-inspired fastener or toggle as decorative ornament. With winking references to America’s glorious Machine Age past, played up in a playful palette of Depression era linoleum hues, these are the kind of clothing-as-socialcommentary, and accessories-as- artwork that might have come from Gucci or Prada.
Which is saying a lot for a bag that retails for hundreds rather than thousands. And which is why, even though it’s so very American, I find myself wanting one. Karen von Hahn is a Toronto-based writer, trend observer and style commentator. Contact her at kvh@karenvonhahn.com.