Toronto Star

Dip into Shishlix’s easy, nutritious mirza ghasemi

- Karon Liu

For a taste of Persian home-cooking, head to Richmond Hill, specifical­ly the strip of Yonge St. near 16th Ave. where there are dozens of bakeries, takeout joints and in the case of Shishlix, a fancy sit-down restaurant with platters of kebabs that take up half the table.

When Shishlix opened in 2006, there was probably one other sitdown Persian restaurant in the neighbourh­ood, says co-owner Amir Miryousefi. At that time, most Persian businesses were around the Yonge and Finch Sts. area. But over the years, Persians have moved north.

This influx of Iranian diners has lead Shishlix to double its size, expanding into the space next door. But it still offers the same simple fare Miryousefi remembers eating at home with his family back in Tehran.

The restaurant was named after a type of Iranian lamb skewer called shisklik (you’ll find it on the menu). The restaurant is best known for its platters of chicken, beef and lamb skewers. Chicken breasts and thighs are marinated in lemon and saffron, giving it a fresh, sharp bite the colour of sunshine. Ground beef kebabs are juicy with a slight black- ened kiss from the grill.

Most Torontonia­ns are familiar with baba ghanoush, the Levantine dip of smoked eggplant and tahini, but fewer know about mirza ghasemi, a northern Iranian mezze staple of smoked eggplant cooked down with tomatoes, garlic, eggs and turmeric, giving it a deep yellow colour. It’s warm and garlicky, and tomatoes give it a zip of summery freshness.

Mirza Ghasemi Star Tested

Traditiona­lly the eggplant is grilled until charred. I roasted it, in lieu of having an open fire in the test kitchen. While eggs are commonly added — either stirred in, baked in or fried and placed on top — some diners prefer an eggless version. 2 eggplant 1-1/2 lb. (0.7 kg) each 1 tbsp (15 mL) canola oil 5 cloves garlic, minced 1-1/2 tsp (7 mL) ground turmeric 1 large tomato, diced 2 large eggs, optional Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Preheat oven to 425 F (220 C).

Using a sharp knife, poke a few holes around eggplants. Place on a lined baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes to an hour, or until skin has darkened and eggplants have slightly deflated.

Remove from oven and let rest until cool enough to handle. Peel off skin and discard. Transfer eggplant flesh to a bowl and set aside.

In a large skillet, add oil and garlic. Bring heat up to medium-high and stir occasional­ly until garlic starts to sizzle. Add turmeric and stir. Add tomatoes and cook until they start to break down, about 15 minutes.

Add roasted eggplant. Stir, using a spoon or spatula to break up eggplant into smaller pieces. Turn heat down to medium-low and let mixture simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes or until it has thickened into a hummus-like consistenc­y. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

If using, beat eggs into eggplant mixture and stir for a minute or two before removing skillet from heat. Serve warm with flatbread or rice. Makes 4 to 6 servings. karonliu@thestar.ca

 ?? KARON LIU/TORONTO STAR ?? Northern Iranian mezze staple Mirza ghasemi is an easy eggplant and tomato dip best paired with warm flatbread.
KARON LIU/TORONTO STAR Northern Iranian mezze staple Mirza ghasemi is an easy eggplant and tomato dip best paired with warm flatbread.
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