Finding a path to decrease aggression
I have a five-year-old dog that knows many skills. When he sees another dog, he won’t obey. On walks, he has leash aggression. In the yard, he runs and barks at the neighbour’s dog and will not stop. In the car, he barks ferociously at dogs we pass. How do we get him to listen?
Leash aggression usually describes dogs that react when on leash or blocked by a barrier. The distinguishing feature is that they are exceptionally friendly when loose. People usually describe them as perfect at off-leash parks and aggressive on leash.
Care needs to be taken to ensure that a dog is actually leash reactive. For example, dogs that resource guard may become aggressive because other dogs approach their people during walks. Those walks happen to be on leash.
Leash reactivity is frustration based. The dog is friendly so long as they get to what they want.
Although these problems appear similar, they are treated differently. Assessment is the first step. It’s plausible that this dog is guarding people, territory and vehicles. It’s equally plausible that the dog simply fears or dislikes other dogs. If in doubt, assume that the dog is not leash aggressive. Assume anxiety.
Over aroused, fearful or anxious dogs have tremendous difficulty focusing on tasks. The perceived threat takes priority over other activities. It would be like expecting someone who fears snakes to read a map while a snake slithers toward them.
Dogs aren’t going to think well enough to obey until they learn that there is no threat. This is done by creating a positive association. The pet has to learn that other dogs predict good things. Or in the case of the resource guarder, they need to learn that animals near their re- sources predict good things.
These exercises need to be done in small, measured steps.
Begin working at a distance, usually further away than most people think is necessary. Each time the reactive dog notices another animal, they are given a very high value piece of food. Food continues to flow so long as the animal is present. This exercise is repeated, at a distance, until the dog starts to happily anticipate the sight of other dogs. Only then can the exercise become more difficult.
While simple, it’s not a simplistic exercise. Simple things often require attention to detail. Work with a competent professional.
Once the dog learns to feel safe, then obedience should be reintroduced. Work on leash skills so the dog learns to be happy, not frustrated when on leash. Our one-year-old cavalier will not stop jumping on people. Nothing works. We have tried stepping on the leash, ignoring him and putting our hand in his face. How can we stop it?
The problem with all of these strategies is that they are three to 10 seconds too late and one level too difficult. Far too much emphasis is placed on stopping jumping after it has happened. If we were to really, truthfully articulate what we want from dogs, it’s that they not jump in the first place.
This means swinging into action before they jump, while they are capable of focusing. This allows owners to reward the dog quickly and repeatedly for keeping four paws on the floor. If the dog starts to bounce, gently and kindly walk them away. Then try again.
Before working with strangers, drill with easier distractions. Work at an easier level. Far too many dogs jump at toys, treats or family members cooing.
Build a strong foundation to prepare for working around other people first. Yvette Van Veen is an animal behaviour consultant and Canada’s 1st Tested and Certified PCT-A. Write her at advice@awesomedogs.ca.