Versatile baby artichokes take the spotlight closer to home
Thistle more famously found in Italy, Spain and France
When I told my favourite Italian barista I was writing about artichokes grown in Markham, he looked perplexed. Artichokes in Ontario? This edible thistle is more famously found in Italy, Spain, France and even California, where the mineral-tinged globes soak up the cool morning mist rolling off the Pacific and thrive in the mild winter. All far from Markham. Dominic DeFilippis’ love of artichokes, a near-daily treat in his family’s home of Bari in southern Italy, sustained him through years of trial and error while he figured out how to grow the edible flower buds here.
Now that he and his grown children can provide a consistent supply from August to October, they can’t produce them fast enough.
“The demand is huge and growing every year among all ages and ethnic groups,” says DeFilippis, who sells artichokes and more familiar crops to major chains and independent supermarkets from their Top Tomato Foods stall at the Ontario Food Terminal and at the family’s 19th Avenue Farmers Market.
My favourite part about the local crop is that they’re babies, not the leathery, jumbo-sized globes that can be so intimidating to prepare and cook. These little guys, which come in three sizes, are easy and fun to cook because there’s no fuzzy “choke” in the centre to scrape out.
They’re also incredibly versatile, and can be steamed, baked, roasted, microwaved or grilled. DeFilippis said many people pickle the smaller ones. His wife, Anna, likes to stuff them or simmers them in tomato sauce to serve over rice.
Once cooked, use them the same way you’d use the jarred kind, in salads, cooked dishes or as part of an antipasto platter.
Buy and store
Fresh baby artichokes will squeak when you cut them.
Refrigerate up to a week in their clamshell or in a vented plastic bag.
The local crop should be available until October, while California babies are at their peak in May.
Prep
Rinse and brush baby artichokes under cold water. Remove stem with a sharp knife. Cut off the spiky tips about 1/2inch (1 centimetre) from the top.
Snap off the outer petals until you reach the pale, yellow-green layer. Trim any dark green edges. Immediately transfer trimmed artichokes to a bowl of water with lemon or vinegar to prevent browning.
Cut in half or quarters for faster cooking.
Artichokes are done when a tooth- pick or knife slides easily through the base.
Sauté Trim and cut baby artichokes in half. Pat dry. Heat oil in a skillet and sauté on medium-high heat, covered, about 5 minutes or until tender and brown. Season to taste with red pepper flakes, finely chopped garlic and parsley, salt and pepper.
Grill Precook baby artichokes until tender. Pat dry and brush with olive oil and lemon juice. Grill on medium heat, turning frequently, until browned.
Serve
Add cooked artichokes to baked pasta, stews and quiche.
Add to a quattro stagioni (four seasons) pizza.
Roast or finish on the grill for a side dish with meat or fish.
Marinated Baby Artichokes
Star Tested Toss these tender bites into any summer salad, pair with grilled lamb chops or serve with an antipasto platter. Adapted from Martha Stewart.
Juice of 2 lemons baby artichokes (1 clamshell) 1/4 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 clove garlic, cut in half 2 tbsp (30 mL) whole black peppercorns 2 tbsp (30 mL) coarse sea salt, divided
1 small bunch fresh thyme sprigs Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
Add lemon juice to a bowl of cold water. Cut 1/2 inch (1 centimetre) or less off top of artichoke and remove stem. Snap off dark green outer leaves until you reach pale yellow. Trim off any dark green bits. Cut in half lengthwise and place in lemon water to prevent browning.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil with 2 tablespoons (30 millilitres) oil, garlic, peppercorns, 1-1/2 tablespoon (20 mL) of the salt and thyme. Drain artichokes and add to pan. Reduce heat and simmer, keeping artichokes submerged with a plate, about 5 minutes or until tender when pierced with a toothpick or knife tip.
Remove from heat; drain. Transfer to a serving bowl with the garlic and a few sprigs of thyme. Drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons (30 millilitres) oil and season with remaining 1-1/2 teaspoons (7 millilitres) salt and a little pepper. Makes 2 cups (500 millilitres). Cynthia David is a Toronto-based food and travel writer who blogs at cynthiadavid.com