Granola is nutritious — but with a catch
Cup looks small, but contains calories to make it a big meal
House-made granola, $6.50 Kupfert & Kim, six downtown Toronto locations
The ask Every morning, on her way to work, Tierney Read Grieve walks past the doughnut shops and bagel counters, sandwich joints and smoothie bars that pack Toronto’s financial district.
The lawyer, who works in one of the towering office buildings, is often drawn to Kupfert & Kim, a minichain serving “meatless, wheatless” plant-based meals.
Specifically, Read Grieve is attracted to the Kupfert & Kim’s housemade granola of rolled oats, dates, pecans, maple syrup and medley of seeds and spices. The crunchy clusters are topped with hemp seeds, fresh berries and a splash — or two or three — of plant-based milk.
“It’s one of those ostensibly healthy options when it comes to fast food,” she says, adding that she loves the granola’s unique taste, especially the kick of cardamom.
“For a few months, I was having that granola every morning for breakfast, so five days a week. It’s filling, tasty and, maybe, too good to be true.”
The guess On its own, Read Grieve estimates the granola to have about 400 calories.
With berries, maple syrup and almond milk?
“I think this could be a 600- to 650-calorie breakfast.” The exclusive results Calories: 775 Fat: 37 grams Sodium: 193 milligrams Carbohydrates: 90 grams (including 28 grams sugars) Protein: 23 grams
The breakdown
It looks small, but the serving of granola weighs 193 grams, just shy of half a pound.
Its 775 calories and 37 grams of fat makes this a big meal — the equivalent of a steak dinner. For example, the Keg’s Top Sirloin Steak (12 oz.) Classic Dinner, which comes with sautéed mushrooms, mixed vegetables and an iceberg wedge salad with buttermilk ranch dressing, has 767 calories and 38 grams of fat.
What about a breakfast comparison? This granola has the same number of calories as 5 1⁄2 Kashi Trail Mix Whole Grain Bars. It’s also about the same, calorie-wise, as five slices of multi-grain toast each topped with 1 tablespoon of natural peanut butter.
With 28 grams of total sugars, the granola contains the equivalent of 7 teaspoons of sugar.
The expert response Registered dietitian Carol Harrison says the granola’s ingredients — nuts, seeds, berries and whole grains — are a winning combination for a nutrient-packed breakfast.
But, she continues, don’t be fooled by the seemingly small portion size. The granola’s 775 calories are more than what many sedentary people require in a single meal.
“By nature, the way you make granola makes it high in calories because it’s rich in sugar and oil”
Still, Harrison says, the granola is a better option than a lower-calorie muffin or baked good, which provides little nutrition for its calories.
So, what would a registered dietitian do when faced with Kupfert & Kim’s breakfast options? Harrison says she would choose the steel-cut oatmeal.
Better yet, she adds, make oatmeal at home, where you are in control of the ingredients and portion sizes and can enjoy it for a fraction of the price.
“Top it with a small handful of walnuts, a drizzle of maple syrup and a generous portion of diced apples. Or make overnight fruit and nut muesli in a mason jar for a grab-and-go breakfast.”
The restaurant reaction Mark Kupfert, who co-owns Kupfert & Kim with Daniel Suss, says the house-made granola is a good, energy-filled breakfast.
“The calories and fat, I’m totally cool with,” he says. “There is not a processed ingredient in it.”
But, he adds, its 28 grams of sugars —“it comes from three things: maple syrup, medjool dates and figs” — is too high for his liking and the restaurant will tweak the recipe.
“I would still recommend the granola with this knowledge. However, I believe we can make the dish delicious with less sugar.”
Kupfert & Kim’s first location opened in January 2013. Since then, The Dish has received dozens of reader requests about its meals, making it among the column’s mostqueried restaurants.
“We have to do it,” Kupfert says, noting the restaurant has also received many emails asking for nutrition numbers. “The market wants it.”
One of the difficulties, he says, is making consistent-sized meals so that posted nutrition information is accurate. On the other hand, he continues, customers appreciate the homespun vibe of his restaurant. As yet, there is no timeline for Kupfert & Kim to provide nutrition numbers.
Regardless, Kupfert, who is himself a health-conscious eater, says he is proud of his mini-chain that offers minimally processed, vegetableheavy meals.
“If we’re willing to eat it, we’re happy for other people to eat it. I still feel like I’m making healthy eating accessible and that’s a positive.”
The reader reaction Read Grieve is gobsmacked at the granola’s calorie count.
“Oh. My. God. And I thought I was rounding up!” she says, adding that her estimate didn’t include her bonus drizzle of maple syrup or any almond milk. “And it’s not like I don’t eat again until 1 p.m.; I certainly do snack. So that could kick me up to having more than 1,000 calories before lunch.”
After her shock subsides, Read Grieve makes a plan for how she can again enjoy her favourite granola: She’ll have it less often. There will be no mid-morning snacking. And, when she does order the granola, she will mindfully eat every bite.
“I will make that choice more consciously,” she says. “I’m not going to wolf it all down and start looking for treats an hour and a half later. And I’ll make a deal with myself to have an active day.
“I’m glad that I now know so I can plan for it and feel no guilt or no worry.” The Dish is a weekly series that helps health-conscious diners navigate Toronto’s food scene by revealing the nutrition information of Star readers’ favourite foods. If you are curious about the calories in a meal or treat, email Megan Ogilvie at mogilvie@thestar.ca. Items selected to be featured in The Dish will be sent to an accredited laboratory for nutritional analysis.