Discovering Tahiti’s treasures off the resort

Meet the locals, share a meal and explore Polynesian culture

TAHITI— As I round the back of the house, in search of a salle de bain, I run into three young girls — my host’s daughters — playing with dolls and listening to the radio.

“J’aime la musique,” one of the girls says to me. “Et toi?”

I reach deep into that part of my brain that remembers grade-school French. “Oui,” I answer, unable to describe my thoughts any further. “Uh, oui, j’aime . . .”

She turns up the volume. I recognize the song immediately: “Despacito.” I’m in the middle of the South Pacific, about as far away as it’s possible to get from a large land mass, and I’m listening to Justin Bieber. Even here, there’s no getting away from the Beebs.

This is Tahiti — well, technically I’m on the island of Taha’a, one of 118 islands and atolls that make up French Polynesia. Tahiti is the largest of the islands, but the name refers to both the island and the region.

The region is spread out over an area the size of Western Europe, though most of that is water. I can’t even imagine how French colonialists found this place. The islands were annexed by France in 1880, and today are considered part of the French Republic. French is the official language, but Tahitian languages are widely spoken.

Until recently, Polynesian culture wasn’t taught in schools, but there’s been a push to bring it back over the past five years or so. Kids are learning traditional dance, while adults are getting inked with traditional tattoos. For visitors, the islands offer an interesting mix of Polynesian and French cultures: the Polynesians eat tuna, the French turn it into tuna tartare.

One of the best ways to experience this mix of cultures is by getting out of that luxury over-the-water bungalow and staying in a family-run pension, where you get a chance to meet the locals and share a meal (it also makes a trip to Tahiti a lot more affordable).

After sharing a “Despacito” moment with the girls, I return to the yard, where our lunch of pork, chicken, fish and root vegetables (taro and yam) is cooking in an underground oven (a bed of heated stones covered with earth and leaves, called a himaa) — a traditional Tahitian meal that families typically share on a Sunday.

All the adults — men and women — are helping to prepare the meal. Samuel Tamachu, our host and guide with Heremana Tours, introduces me to his “second” wife, Thilda. “My first wife is Tatiana,” he laughs. He’s joking, of course. We met Tatiana earlier that day, on a lagoon excursion in the crystal-clear waters and coral gardens of Taha’a. She swam right up to Samuel and wrapped her slimy arms — or, rather, wings — around him, excited as a puppy.

I was hesitant to meet Tatiana — after all, she’s a stingray. Samuel tells us we can pet the rays, but that we should avoid touching their tails (apparently, they don’t like that). He seems to recognize each ray; he’s even named them.

This isn’t an aquarium or park. This is the ocean. There is no one here but us.

As I flop into the water, I’m having one of those “not sure this is such a good idea” moments. But after a few minutes, I’m smitten with Tatiana and the gang. Rays are social, playful and intelligent.

From this coral garden, you can see the jagged peaks of Bora Bora in the distance — perhaps the best-known island in French Polynesia. While Bora Bora is renowned for its natural beauty, it’s also synonymous with high-end resorts, allout luxury and celebrity sightings.

I prefer to watch the sunset over Bora Bora from my pension’s wooden dock on Taha’a. Here, there’s a different energy. This flower-shaped island is quiet and remote; life is more traditional. And it’s only accessible by boat.

The lush hillsides of Taha’a are covered in coconut groves and Tahitian vanilla farms. And it’s surrounded by motus (teeny-tiny islets) scattered across the lagoon it shares with Raiatea. Most lagoon excursions include swimming with rays and reef sharks, followed by a picnic lunch.

The result is Polynesian paradise, with a bit of French flair. Looking up at the night sky, so clear you can see the Milky Way, it’s easy to forget the fast pace and everyday stress of life on the North American continent — even if you can’t quite escape Despacito. Vawn Himmelsbach was hosted by Tahiti Tourisme, which didn’t review or approve this story. Don’t limit yourself to one island or one resort — Tahiti is meant for island-hopping,

ALLY CARLSON Ukulele legend and tattoo artist Tavita Manea greets visitors at the Fare Pea Iti pension on the island of Taha’a in Tahiti.

VAWN HIMMELSBACH PHOTOS Samuel Tamachu, a guide with Heremana Tours in Taha’a offers excursions into the lagoon to swim with stingrays and reef sharks.

The flower-shaped island of Taha’a in Tahiti is quiet and remote. Life here is more traditional than on its neighbouring island, Bora Bora.

VAWN HIMMELSBACH Get way off the beaten path: If you Google “Fakarava,” you’ll see a pencil line in the ocean. Technically, Fakarava is a U-shaped atoll, only 200 to 400 metres wide, encircling a lagoon with 72 motus (islets). Life moves at a slower pace — everyone...

VAWN HIMMELSBACH Visit a UNESCO World Heritage site: On the island of Raiatea you’ll find Marae Taputapuatea, the largest outdoor marae (temple) in French Polynesia — and a newly named UNESCO World Heritage site.

SOFITEL MOOREA Splash out for a night: Taking the 40-minute ferry ride from Papeete to Moorea, it’s hard not to feel a sense of awe as the island comes into view, with its lush, jagged mountains shrouded in mist, towering over turquoise lagoons fringed by coral reefs.

CORALLINA TOURS Swim with a humpback whale: Forget whale-watching from a boat with binoculars. In Moorea, you can jump in the water and swim with them.

ALLY CARLSON Have tuna tartare on a motu: Yellowfin tuna is served everywhere (as tartare, poke, carpaccio and sashimi), and it’s about as fresh as it gets.