FIVE GREAT BUBBLIES AT MODEST PRICES
Buying bubbly on a budget can be a really bad thing. Most cheap fizz tastes downright disgusting or like licking a lollipop. But some respectable ones do exist at reasonable prices. In fact, I’ve found five that range between about $14 and $41, every one
NV Cave Spring Blanc de Blancs Brut Sparkling, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario (Vintages Essential 213983, $27.95 until Dec. 31, reg $29.95 in stores and online)
A blanc de blancs is a sparkling wine made entirely of Chardonnay, which tends to make it taste quite lifted and elegant — sort of delicate. Such is the case here with this dry, fine-boned version from Niagara that reminds me more of crushed stones and salt than fruit, though hints Granny Smith apple and lemon blossom show through here and there. And quiet allusions of almond and freshly rolled pastry show through on the finish. This long, lean, linear expression will almost certainly appeal to those with a penchant for refined, restrained white wines. Great with oysters.
Score: 90
NV Enterizo Brut Nature, Spain (Vintages 516716, $14.95 in stores only)
Classic Cava aromas of dark toast and marmalade that dovetail with hints of white flowers, white pepper, yellow plum, sea salt, citrus pith on the palate finishing with a soft powdery texture. Gorgeous with green olives. This is the only Brut Nature at the LCBO, and it’s delicious. Brut Nature means no sugar was added after the second fermentation in bottle — so it’s bone dry with zero to three grams per litre of residual sugar. To compare, Brut sparkling wine has up to 12 g/L of sugar. Brut still tends to taste dry due to high acidity, but not as dry as Brut Nature.
Score: 90+
NV Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario (LCBO 217521, $29.95 in stores and online)
This bubbly has been on shelves for 15 years now and has established itself as one of Ontario’s better bubblies. It’s a champagne blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that’s carefully crafted and spends about 30 months on the lees (spent yeast) before release, which imparts lovely toasty-biscuity flavours. The result is an elegant, articulate wine that sparkles with tiny bubbles and pretty scents of caramelized pear. Then, on the palate, a cool-bright yet almost creamy attack of lemon meringue pie arrests the senses and slowly tapers to a toasted nut and gingersnap finish. Pour it with smoked salmon paté.
Score: 89
NV Ca’ del Bosco Cuvee Prestige Brut Franciacorta DOCG, Lombardy, Italy (Vintages 105353, $41.95 in stores only)
Franciacorta is Italy’s answer to champagne. Like its French counterpart, it’s based on Chardonnay and Pinot Nero (Italian for Pinot Noir), undergoes a second fermentation in bottle to create complexity and fine bubbles, and must abide by rigorous production standards. Not much Franciacorta reaches us here in Ontario, but this bottle now on shelves is exquisite. Love the gentle perfume of poached pears and toast that lead to a broad, immediately captivating wash of dried apricot, candied citrus and butter pastry with a crisp, bone dry structure and silky texture. Fabulous with anchovies on toast. Score: 93
NV Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava, Spain (LCBO 216960, $15.45 in stores and online)
Subdued scents of orange and grapefruit peel, toast and lilac lead to an electric, mouth-watering attack of salted grapefruit edged with lime and freshly baked bread — all shot through with tiny bubbles that create a fine mousse in the mouth. The aromas, flavours and structure of this dry Cava come together in an impressive whole that doesn’t vary much year to year. Terrific Spanish fizz to pour on its own, with some mild brie at room temperature, or with a broad range of spicy tapas.
Score: 91+