Ditch the bun and make Japanese-style hamburgers
When I asked my mom to share her recipe for her Japanese-style hamburgers, her response was, “You’re going to laugh how easy it is to make.”
It’s one of her go-to weeknight meals when she’s short on time and doesn’t want to fuss with too many ingredients. It’s also one of my favourite things she makes.
It’s a thick, juicy patty with a hint of sweetness and a tinge of soy sauce that shows an entirely different side of Japanese cooking.
Japanese hamburgers, or “hambagu,” are part of a category of western-influenced Japanese cuisine called Yoshoku. This style of food dates back to the late 19th century, when Emperor Meiji became a fan of European ideals and promoted the consumption of western food.
Other examples of Yoshoku dishes include spaghetti with cod roe, curry, katsu (fried meat cutlets) and omelettes stuffed with fried rice.
Hambagu is essentially a hamburger without the bun, and is commonly eaten in Japanese households and there are even restaurants that specialize in the dish in Japan.
There are countless recipe variations, but at its core the patty is a combination of ground beef and pork mixed with finely chopped or grated onion (think of its American cousin, the Salisbury steak). In lieu of a bun, hambagu is typically served with rice, steamed or sautéed vegetables or mashed potatoes. While mom serves her hambagu plain (she argues it’s flavourful enough, and I agree), most recipes add a thick, tangy sauce made of a combination of ketchup and Worcestershire, plus other ingredients such as red wine or stock.
I included an optional recipe for a simple sauce for home cooks who want to try it. You can also top the patties with plain steak sauce, ketchup, Worcestershire, grated diakon, a fried egg, or trust my mom and keep it plain. (Thanks mom).
Mom’s Japanese-style Hambagu
Star Tested
For the hambagu
My mom prefers the saltier, deeper flavour of dark Chinese soy sauce but you can substitute an equal amount of lighter-tasting Japanese soy sauce or light Chinese soy sauce. Uncooked patties can be frozen for up to a month, or refrigerated for one or two days. For single diners I recommend cooking them all at once and saving the extras for tomorrow’s lunch.
1/2 lb (225g) ground beef
1/4 lb (113g) ground pork
1 tsp (5 mL) granulated sugar
3 tbsp (45 mL) cornstarch
1 small yellow onion, finely grated (about 1/2 cup)
2 tbsp plus 1 tsp (35 mL) dark Chinese soy sauce
1 tbsp (15 mL) canola or vegetable oil Furikake (Japanese rice seasoning), optional
In a large bowl, using your hands, mix together beef and pork. Add sugar, cornstarch, onion and soy sauce.
Continue to mix vigorously until mixture becomes a firm ball with a slightly elastic texture.
Shape meat into 4 evenly sized patties 1/2-inch in thickness. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook patties until browned, 3 to 4 minutes each side, and no longer pink in middle. Garnish with furikake, if using.
Makes 2 servings.
For the sauce (optional)
2 tbsp (30 mL) Worcestershire sauce
2 tbsp (30 mL) ketchup
1 tbsp (15 mL) water
In a small saucepan over mediumlow heat, whisk together all ingredients and bring to a gentle simmer. Remove from heat and pour over burger patties.
Makes about 1/4 cup (60 mL) sauce. karonliu@thestar.ca