500 things to do in INDIANAPOLIS
‘Crossroads of America’ nexus for a diverse offering of art, food and recreation
When I think of Indianapolis, I think about art.
That may not be true for everyone who visits the “Crossroads of America,” a place often associated with fast cars (the Indianapolis 500), sports fanaticism (football’s Colts and basketball’s Pacers, for starters) and towering monuments. (The capital city of Indiana ranks just behind the District of Columbia in number of memorials and monuments.)
But beneath the fumes and fans is a scrappy, creative community determined to make art part of the everyday Indy experience. There’s an exceptional art museum (Newfields) on a 61-hectare, sculpture-splotched campus; the 13-kilometre Cultural Trail dotted with bike-share stations that connects a handful of neighbourhoods and cultural districts; a hotel, the Alexander, with a $3.5-million (U.S.), museum-grade collection of art; fun and funky independent boutiques along Massachusetts Ave., a.k.a. “Mass Ave.”; and even an avant-garde food scene. (I’m still thinking about the dramatic egg I ate at Bar One Fourteen.)
And that whole Hoosier hospitality thing? The people are as friendly as I’ve ever encountered, whether fellow shoppers at Indianapolis City Market awaiting their pour-over coffee, Lyft drivers or duckpin bowling attendants.
Today, that sort of warmth feels like its own kind of art. Local faves
Newfields, discovernewfields.org: I love losing myself in the contemporary section of Newfields, formerly known as the Indianapolis Museum of Art, where so many works manage to draw a smile. There’s the room dedicated to little plastic figurines holding up a translucent floor (in Floor, by Do-Ho Suh). And the space where speakers and wires dangle from the ceiling, transmitting eerie, whispered words of tenderness, such as “I love you” (in Terrain by Julianne Swartz). Newfields is one of the largest encyclopedic art museums in the country, meaning the art spans both time and place. It’s on a sprawling, sculpture-filled array of woodlands and wetlands that is worth a couple of hours (unless it is -17 C outside, as it was on our visit). People tend to raise an eyebrow when I tell them that one of my favourite art museums in the world is in Indianapolis — unless they’ve been here. Then they get it.
Slippery Noodle Inn, slipperynoodle.com: Since 1850, the bar now known as Slippery Noodle Inn — Indiana’s oldest continuously operating bar — has been a roadhouse, a brothel, a station on the Underground Railroad and a hangout for gangster John Dillinger. (Ask to see the bullets lodged in one of the walls.) Today, it’s a dive bar in the best possible way — with air that smells deep-fried, buzzing neon signs and cheap shots of alcohol — where you can hear rollicking live blues music seven nights a week.
Indiana Medical History Museum, imhm.org: In the waiting area of the Indiana Medical History Museum, placards sit by jars of preserved organs and explain what went wrong. One holds the brain of a man who turned violent after being shot in the head during the Spanish-American War. Another brain belonged to a person who was kicked in the head by a horse at age 9 but didn’t have any symptoms of trauma until adulthood. They were studied here, in the Old Pathology Building of what was once known as the Indiana Hospital for the Insane, then finally Central State Hospital. The facility opened in 1848 and was, at the time, a progressive teaching institution that sought to understand and help patients with mental illnesses, rather than lock them away. A tour takes visitors through laboratories and a spooky autopsy room in this frozen-in-time building, which became a museum after it closed in the 1960s.
Action and Atomic Duckpin Bowling, fountainsquareindy.com: A refurbished 1920s multiplex in the Fountain Square neighbourhood is the unlikely home of Action & Atomic Duckpin Bowling. Walk down the stairs to the basement and you’ll step right into the Leave it to Beaver era: a turquoise-and-white-checkered alley straight out of the 1950s. First lesson: Duckpin bowling, with its coconut-size ball and squat pins, is more challenging than regular bowling, which is why each player gets three rolls per turn. Don’t expect a perfect game (or to even pick up a spare, if you’re like me). The alleys — and balls — are as vintage as the surroundings, but it’s still a blast. Eat
Aristocrat Pub and Restaurant, aristocratpub.com: We’re sitting by a cosy fireplace at the Aristocrat Pub & Restaurant, surrounded by woodpanelled walls and tidy booths. I’ve just told the hippieish waitress that I heard they serve the best pork tenderloin sandwich in town. She nods in agreement, purring, “We really do.” That’s when she refers to the sandwich, a signature culinary creation in Indiana that’s like a porcine version of chicken-fried steak or Wiener schnitzel, simply as a breaded — “Two breadeds, then?” — and I fall a little bit in love with the place. Our Hoosier Tenderloin sandwiches are served within minutes, fresh out of the fryer and piping hot. The pounded pork fills the whole plate. It’s so enormous that its hamburger bun appears to be minuscule, and reminds me of the late comedian Chris Farley doing his “fat guy in a little coat” routine on Saturday Night Live. But that doesn’t stop us from devouring every tender bite.
Bar One Fourteen, baronefourteen.com: “You’re the only man here,” I whisper to my husband, as we glance around the dark, 16-seat room that is Bar One Fourteen. It’s a funny realization because the selfdescribed “luxe microbar, dining and listening room” is, by no means, a space that would seem to draw women more than men. In fact, everyone in the butter-scented, candlelit room except us appears to be digging into the $28 (U.S.) Fancy AF Burger with shaved, black truffles, wrapped in foil and served on a silver platter. (We have another meal scheduled or we, too, would indulge.) As Jimi Hendrix flows from the sound system, we sip cocktails served in lavish vessels (a bronze pineapple) and marvel at the inventive light bites — especially the soft-scrambled egg, which is a single egg, scrambled and returned to its shell, topped with caviar and surrounded by sea green chive foam. It looks like a work of art, and each bite feels a little extravagant. (Make a reservation online to guarantee a spot.)
St. Elmo Steak House, stelmos.com: It’s easy to spot the people who have just bitten into the famously spicy shrimp cocktail at St. Elmo Steak House. First, there’s the look of shock and betrayal: What have you done to me? The nose runs. The eyes water. The face reddens as adrenalin rushes. Then, with a look of accomplishment, they dive back in for more of that five-alarm, horseradish-y sauce. The appetizer is like a rite of passage at this Indianapolis classic, which opened in 1902, and is known for its top-of-the-line steaks prepared simply and flawlessly. Each meal here doubles as trip in a time machine: It’s delivered by a server wearing a tux and accompanied with Navy bean soup or tomato juice.
Milktooth, milktoothindy.com: Milktooth is kind of like Sara Lee: Nobody doesn’t like it. Everyone I talked to, in fact, loves this breakfastand-lunch spot housed in a former garage. I can understand why. The bright, rollicking diner serves brunch six days a week (it’s closed on Tuesdays), infusing a splash of genius with homestyle favourites. To wit: a Dutch baby pancake piled with roasted apples, lemon caramel and whipped sour cream; a sourdough lemon poppy seed waffle with pearl sugar, slathered in persimmon but- ter and maple syrup; a side of rutabaga and potato latkes. Oh, and since it’s brunch, you’re totally justified in having a cocktail, like a Dreamsicle mimosa, made with fresh orange juice, bergamot vodka, vanilla cream simple syrup and bubbles. Shop
Homespun: Modern Handmade, homespunindy.com: Cross a museum shop with Etsy and you have Homespun: Modern Handmade. This small-but-mighty boutique on Mass Ave. sells wares from hundreds of artists and crafters and its shelves and walls are chockablock with funky jewelry, fragrant hand-poured candles, bright contemporary art and beautiful ceramics. Catch the craft bug? Homespun has you covered with its crafting kits, which help the less creative among us embroider a doll, assemble a fox ornament, handstitch a raccoon and bind a book. Souvenir seekers take note: Homespun is also rich in Indiana pride. Looking for Hoosier-stateshaped earrings? You found ‘em.
Indy Reads Books, indyreadsbooks.org: The sign outside Indy Reads Books instructs visitors to “Do Good. Read More.” It’s a good message for all of us, especially coming from this independent bookstore where revenue funds a non-profit organization that provides free tutoring to promote adult literacy. Here, children’s books sell for $1 and near the door is a “pay what you can” cart encouraging everyone to be a book lover, regardless of means. The store has a variety of new and used books along with a section highlighting local ties, with books by Kurt Vonnegut, who was born here, and young-adult author John Green, who lives here.
Indianapolis City Market, indycm.com: First things first: Before you start wandering around the stalls at the Indianapolis City Market, head directly to the second floor for a little fuel at Mile Square Coffee, where they break out a torch to make the campfire-kissed Smoked Bergamot Chai Tea Latte. (It’s as dramatic as it sounds, and priced accordingly at $5.99.) Now you’re ready to explore the lofty market, which dates to 1886.
Sniff the bright bouquets at the Flower Boys, sample the pastel macarons at Circle City Sweets, peruse the artisanal kraut (made with beets, ramps and other fruits and veggies) at Fermenti Artisan and consider dozens of quick (and even healthy) lunch options throughout. While the hours posted are 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday (and 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Saturday), it’s pretty much a ghost town unless you’re here during the weekday at lunchtime or sipping a local beer during happy hour at Tomlinson Tap Room.
Art Bank, artbankgallery.com: My head turned as I drove along Mass Ave. and saw people walking into a place called Art Bank. Is it a bank? A gallery? Both, it turns out. The former Massachusetts Avenue State Bank, constructed in the1920s, is now afunky art gallery displaying works — available for purchase — from a patchwork of artists. Lest you forget you’re inside a bank, reminders abound, such as the teller area for purchases and the old vault at the end of a hallway that serves as the Book Nook and displays local literature. Stay
Alexander, thealexander.com: At the Alexander, art isn’t just decoration, it’s the soul of the boutique hotel. A $3.5-million contemporary collection curated by Newfields flits around the lobby, where records transform into birds and fly out of a turntable, and float around the bar, where mystical glass lamps bob like spindly illuminated jellyfish. Whimsical works draw visitors down hallways and around corridors to see what’s next. I recommend grabbing an Old Fashioned and a complementary bag of truffle popcorn at the lobby bar, Plat 99, then taking a spin around before retiring to your colourful room — where “Do Not Disturb” signs are written as haiku.
Le Meridien Indianapolis, lemeridienindianapolis.com: Formerly the Canterbury Hotel, Le Meridien Indianapolis opened in a historical building after a massive renovation a few years ago. The result is subtle elegance, with lots of greyand-metallic, artful touches, along with tantalizing smells. (Seriously, I couldn’t get enough of the seasonal signature scent — called Woodlands by Ambius — wafting through the lobby and hallways.) You can’t beat the downtown location. Not only is it a few steps from Indy favourites such as St. Elmo Steak House, but it’s one of 12 downtown hotels connected to the Indiana Convention Center, Lucas Oil Stadium and Circle Centre Mall via a Habitrail-like “skywalk,” so even if it’s frigid out, you can access shops, restaurants and bars — and get in some mall walking. Explore
Fountain Square: Boundaries — North: Railroad tracks just south of Bates St. South: Pleasant Run Parkway. East: State St. West: I-65. “Rockabilly” is the word that comes to mind whenever I visit Fountain Square. Historical brick buildings surround a central fountain, and quirky vintage, thrift and one-of-akind shops are a welcome respite from chain stores and malls. If getting a tattoo (Fountain Square Tattoo), doing the Lindy Hop (swing dancing at Fountain Square Theatre) and needing out over comic books (Hero House Comics) and vinyl (Square Cat Vinyl) are your idea of a fun day, Fountain Square is your gal. The neighbourhood is about 21⁄ ki
2 lometres southeast of downtown, and if the weather’s nice, you can hop on a Pacers Bikeshare bicycle and get there via the paved Cultural Trail.
Broad Ripple Village: Boundaries — North: White River. South: Kessler Bld. East: North Evanston Ave. West: North Meridian St. There’s a collegetown feel to Broad Ripple Village, thanks to its proximity to Butler University. About a 20-minute drive north of downtown, the energized area checks all the boxes of a modern “top neighbourhood” list: excellent coffee at Monon Coffee, an extensive new-and-used music selection at Indy CD and Vinyl, a natural-food shop, yoga studios and quirky gift shops and boutiques, along with restaurants and bars galore, and enough density to be walkable. If you feel like taking a leisurely bike ride, the Monon Trail, which was once a railroad path, passes over a canal and the White River and winds through neighbourhoods, eventually connecting you with the Cultural Trail downtown.