SNEAK A SIP THAT COULD SELL FOR MORE
I get a little thrill when I come across a wine that could sell for more than its price, especially when that bottle is widely available. I came across quite a few such wines recently as I tasted the bestselling wines in the United States for the second edition of my book, Good Better Best Wines, to be released in November. Many of those bestsellers are global brands available here in Ontario. Here is a roundup of five favourites. 2015 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay, Washington, USA (LCBO 462846 $17.90 in stores and online; also available at select grocery stores)
Classic wooded Chardonnay here with lashings of glossy, buttery, caramelized fruit — apples mostly but also peaches. The fleshy layers are threaded with warm baking spices including cinnamon, nutmeg and a dash of allspice; and every sip finishes with a light topcoat of silken vanilla cream. This gorgeous, articulate Chardonnay drinks like a wine worth more than $18. Serve it with roasted Atlantic salmon and pan-fried potatoes.
Score: 90
2017 Frontera Sauvignon Blanc, Concha y Toro, Chile (LCBO 524348 $9.10/750mL bottle, LCBO 113019 $15.25/ 1500mL bottle — both available in stores and online)
It’s an open secret Chile can produce stunningly good value Sauvignon Blanc, and this bottle is a brilliant example. Wafting with the gentle perfume of sliced red and green apples, its entry is instantly appealing with a generous attack of crisp Granny Smiths edged with damp basil and cut grass. The tightlywound core tastes clean and mouthfilling, with an expression of the variety that falls somewhere between the restraint of Sancerre and the full-throttle version from Marlborough. Frontera is one of the most undervalued Sauvignon Blancs on shelves today and tastes particularly lovely with zucchini and goat cheese quiche.
Score: 93
2015 Joseph Carr Josh Cellars Legacy Red Blend, California (LCBO 507467 $17.90 in stores and online)
No wonder this red blend of Merlot, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah is a bestseller. The opulent, polished fruit rivets with suggestions of the best-ever chocolate-covered cherries as well as hints of blackberry, poached plum, blueberry pie, pipe tobacco, hazelnut, salt and pepper. Just magnetic. A little backstory — Joseph Carr founded Josh Cellars in 2007, named after his father; and ever since, the wines have soared in popularity. Drink this undervalued red with a thick, juicy steak seared Chicago-style.
Score: 91
2016 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, California (Vintages Essential 369686 $19.95 in stores and online; also available at select grocery stores)
I’ve recommended this bottle before in this column, but it’s worth another mention because, tasted against its direct competition, it shines. And it’s wildly popular for good reason. Expect evocative aromas of toasted nut, vanilla cream and pithy citrus peel that leads to a silky-swift entry that tastes lifted and dignified rather than too fruity or overoaked. Mouthcoating flavours of crisp apple are interwoven with warm hazelnut, crème brûlée and buttered toast with a balanced, seamless structure. Long. Works very well with poultry but also pairs marvelously with classic cheese fondue.
Score: 90+
NV Flipflop Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, California (LCBO 494179 $10.05 in stores and online)
Flipflop Cabernet Sauvignon is obviously unpretentious yet a very good wine for the money. The initial impression of homemade black cherry jam on the nose and palate quickly morphs into a slightly more serioustasting drop with flavours of espresso, blackcurrant liqueur and dark chocolate quickly coming to the fore. There’s a kiss of sweetness, yes, but the wine is well-made and wellbalanced with outstanding purity of fruit and a lingering coffee-cherry-nut finish. Pair it with that mid-week meat loaf and mashed potatoes or salted dark chocolate.
Score: 92+