LCBO VINTAGES RIPE FOR THE PICKING

I don’t base my columns strictly on the LCBO’s Vintages releases because these wines are stocked temporarily and in relatively small lots — making them a bit of a chore to find. But this week, I stray from that approach to point out five spectacular and u

2016 La Guardiense “Janare Senete” Falanghina del Sannio DOC, Campania, Italy (Vintages 556787 $18.95 in stores)

Made from the ancient Italian grape variety Falanghina by one of the largest co-operative wineries in Italy, this lively white charms the senses with a pronounced perfume of ripe apricot and bright lemon before dashing across the palate with sunlit fruit — yellow plum, apricot and nectarine. While the attack tastes fruit-forward initially, it quickly shifts to reveal savoury undertones of green olive, rock salt and bitter almond that linger on the finish. This crisp white offers the best of both worlds — the patioperfect appeal of a quaffable quencher as well as the depth, concentration and complexity of a serious dinner-party wine. Serve it with bread rubbed with garlic and drizzled with good olive oil, or with grilled seafood.

Score: 94

2017 L’Avenir Far & Near Chenin Blanc, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (Vintages 556365 $15.95 in stores)

Chenin Blanc, with its clean, crisp, steely appeal, is one of the most undersung grape varieties on the planet. It can easily offer all the clean, crisp appeal of a good Pinot Grigio; the citric and stone complexity of unoaked Chardonnay; and more weight and power than both of these wines. If you’re not familiar with Chenin Blanc, this bottle is a great place to start. Expect instantly compelling aromas of struck steel then glides over the palate with pristine purity unfurling flavours of grapefruit, cool slate and bitter lime — the latter of which resonates on the finish for ages. This is a gorgeous, medium- to fullbodied expression with delicacy, finesse and a cute label to boot. Pour it alongside chicken skewers with spicy peanut sauce and shrimp chips.

Score: 92

2014 Grgich Hills Estate Grown Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California (Vintages 346304 $67.95 in stores)

Fans of full-bodied, wooded Chardonnay will want to splash out on this very special bottle that’s worth every cent — and proves once again good value comes at all prices. The aroma draws you in with subtle but articulate scents of vanilla custard, burnt sugar, honey and buttered toast, then swathes the palate with mouthcoating, almost velvety flavours of lemon curd, cool mango, vanilla macaroon, buttered toast, tangerine zest, crushed stones, white pepper and toasted nut — such complexity! And each sip tapers to a long citrus zest, salt and crushed hazelnut finish. Pour it with broiled lobster tails with clarified butter and prepare to swoon.

Score: 91+

2015 Masseria Altemura Sasseo Primitivo, IGT Salento, Italy (Vintages 366955 $16.95 in stores)

Snap up as much of this sub$20 wonder as you can because it is going to fly off shelves. It’s a bottle that could sell for twice the price, easily. And when it’s gone, it’s gone. Chocolatecovered black cherry aromas lead to a rich, dark, supple lick of freshly-brewed coffee, muddled black cherries, dark chocolate, plum jam, baking spices and warm cedar. Finely-grained tannins frame the fruit, leaving a dusting of soft cocoa powdery goodness behind. This is a complex, concentrated, wellbalanced wine to thrill newbies and connoisseurs alike. Serve it with roasted red meats.

Score: 96

2013 Quadrus Red, DOC Douro, Portugal (Vintages 440305 $22.95 in stores)

While the Douro is best known for producing Port, it’s spinning out some spectacular red table wines these days — and this gorgeous offering is a case in point. Aromas of crushed violet, poached plum and freshly baked spice cake lead to saturated flavours of crushed dark stone and berry fruit, dark chocolate, gingerbread, dates, dried plums, toffee and chalk in an elegant tapestry of flavour shot through with a ripple of raspberry juiciness. The wine even has a local link: Quadrus was founded by Torontonians Tony Amaro, Mario Amaro and Aristides Kaplanis in 2005. Pour this delicious red with duck confit or striploin for dinner one night and stun your guests.

Score: 95