Toronto Star

COCOA COAX

Consumers leaving sugary items for healthier treats

- ISIS ALMEIDA

With customers choosing healthier options, chocolate companies are trying to make the treat more appealing,

From cannabis to quinoa, ruby to low-sugar: this is not your grandmothe­r’s chocolate.

With the market for traditiona­l candy bars in developed countries flagging as consumers shun sugary items for healthier treats, food companies are trying to make chocolate more appealing. Their tactics include gimmicks like Ritter Sport’s hemp-infused Chocolate and Grass bars (they don’t get you high), new flavours and colours, as well as formulas that cut down on sugar.

Some chocolatie­rs are even diversifyi­ng away from candy. Hershey Co., which began selling its classic bar 120 years ago, is moving into popcorn and potato chips, while Mars Inc. in November said it will buy a stake in health snack firm Kind. Just two months later, Nestle SA agreed to sell its U.S. confection­ery unit amid falling revenue and a focus on products like coffee and water.

“Sugar is portrayed as the new tobacco,” said Eric Bergman, a commoditie­s broker at Jenkins Sugar Group Inc. “Consumers are now shifting away from the iconic, sugar-filled chocolate brands that we know and into healthier foods. The largest chocolate companies have followed suit and they are transition­ing from chocolate companies into snack companies."

While lower cocoa prices helped improve demand more recently, there’s a growing push to discourage consumptio­n of sugar, which makes up almost half of an average chocolate bar. Advocacy groups are urging people to cut back and government­s are taxing sugary drinks.

To counter health concerns, Nestle is selling slimmed-down Milkybars in the U.K. and Ireland as part of a program to use 30 per cent less sugar. The bars include a type of sugar that dissolves quicker in the mouth, but produces a similar taste to before.

Hershey’s almost $1 billion (U.S.) purchase of Amplify Snack Brands Inc., which also sells protein bars, shows how the industry is branching out as it contends with falling demand for sugary products. The moves come as Euromonito­r Internatio­nal Ltd. sees 2018 chocolate sales growth in western Europe and North America below levels of several years ago.

There are some bright spots for chocolate consumptio­n. Sales of premium brands such as Lindt & Spruengli AG are on the rise, demand in developing countries is growing and consumers are increasing­ly willing to pay more for dark chocolate, which contains more cocoa and less sugar, Bergman said. Millennial­s are also keen to try new varieties, prompting more flavours and artisan brands.

Ruby chocolate is one example. Nestle has been quick to adopt the first new colour in eight decades, which was introduced by No. 1 cocoa processor Barry Callebaut AG last year and is shaded pink using only natural ingredient­s. Germany’s Ritter Sport, which sold out of its limited cannabis bars in just two days, has also offered quinoa bars in the country. Cargill Inc. markets caramel-flavoured white chocolate.

“People are beginning to look at different tastes, different flavours,” Gerry Manley, head of cocoa at Olam Internatio­nal Ltd., said in an interview in Berlin. “They are beginning to want ingredient­s to mix together themselves. You are getting a lot more artisan type of chocolate.”

Consumers also want to understand how the cocoa in their products was produced and if it meets ethical standards, said John George, an analyst at Euromonito­r.

Some customers even want more say over what they buy, according to Andreas Ronken, chief executive officer of Ritter Sport, which lets consumers vote on future limited editions.

“Consumers are increasing­ly asking themselves ‘where does my food come from?’ ” Wyatt Elder, director of research and developmen­t at Cargill Cocoa & Chocolate, and Ilco Kwast, marketing director at the company, said by email. “There is a change going on in the market place, not just among millennial­s but across age groups and geographie­s, which will impact on us and other manufactur­ers. Standing still is not an option."

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 ?? AKIO KON/BLOOMBERG ?? Blocks of chocolate, including ruby flavour, made by Nestle.
AKIO KON/BLOOMBERG Blocks of chocolate, including ruby flavour, made by Nestle.

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