Who needs Kentucky bourbon? Embrace the spirit of Canada
With trade tariffs set to hit American whiskies, it’s high time to try Canadian options
Nobody in Canada wants a trade war — least of all the country’s bartenders and cocktail lovers.
The drinks industry is an especially global-minded one. Spirits enthusiasts think nothing of popping down to Buffalo for a bar crawl or road trips to the whiskey trails in Kentucky and Tennessee.
Now, with tariffs, tougher security measures and Wisconsin Gov. Scott Walker talking seriously about a northern border wall, it looks as though some of that might change.
“We’re neighbours,” says Ryan Ringer, who, with Becky Ip, co-owns Grey Tiger cocktail bar in Toronto’s Bloordale neighbourhood. “And it’s like before we could, you know, walk over to our neighbour’s backyard while they’re having a barbecue, bring some drinks and join in. Now, suddenly, we have to call in advance.”
The United States Department of Homeland Security recently announced it will toughen border surveillance to ensure fair trade, which, in concert with U.S. President Donald Trump’s continued attack on the North American Free Trade Agreement, has led many to believe the days of friendly trade relations are over.
Trump announced 20-per-cent tariffs on Canadian steel and aluminum exports to the U.S.A., which elicited Cana- da to promise retaliatory tariffs on imported American whiskies, such as bourbon and rye. Canadians will be reluctant to part ways with American whiskey since it’s so popular. However, Canada, Mexico and Europe are specifically targeting U.S. red-state products — the Republican-held states including Kentucky, which helped Trump win the election. Senate Majority Leader Mitch McConnell represents Kentucky, where much of America’s bourbon is made, so it’s a safe bet tariffs will only continue to go up if the trade war isn’t stopped.
The scheduled bourbon tariffs — expected to add a 10-per-cent tax on American whiskey on July 1 — is the first retaliation.
Realistically, a lot of Canadians will support our own distilleries and shop Canadian since it’s likely Canada’s economy will suffer from tariffs applied by our biggest trading partner. Thankfully, that’s not a hardship anymore when it comes to spirits (and wine and beer, but that’s another story) since almost any American spirit can be swapped for a comparable — or better — Canadian product.
Here are some worthy Canadian substitutes for American whiskies.
“Bourbon is still king in a lot of ways for a lot of people,” Ringer says.
“Hardcore bourbon drinkers might not mind paying a little bit more, but other people who are more adventurous and willing to try new things will quickly learn we’re in a new golden age of Canadian whisky.”
Ringer likes a good bourbon as much as the next guy — there are many on his impressive back bar Elijah Craig 12, Stagg Jr., Koval Single Barrel — but he’s quick to point out that Irish and Canadian whiskies have been living under an American shadow for too long.
To replace a smooth, cornbased American whisky with intense caramel and vanilla notes, Crown Royal Limited Edition Canadian Whisky (LCBO 246603; $40.95) is an absolute bargain — far better than most comparably priced bourbons. Swap out a spicy, potent American rye for Lot 40 Cask Strength Canadian Whisky (LCBO 541326; $70.20). Or if you prefer craft, try Stalk and Barrel’s 100 per cent Rye Whisky (LCBO 415810 $70.10).
And tariff day — Canada Day — is the perfect opportunity to pick up a Forty Creek Heritage (LCBO 542985; $74.95), an expression that honours distillery founder John Hall’s vision for the revival of the Canadian whisky blending tradition. These suggestions only scratch the surface of available Canadian spirits.
There are more than 130 craft distilleries in Canada, as well as several big operations such as Hiram Walker Distillery in Ontario and Alberta’s Crown Royal Plant. A trade war is the last thing we want, but at least we won’t get fleeced going thirsty.