California-dreamin’ of a cheesy tomato tart
What’s Gaby Cooking recipe has us hankering for West Coast cuisine Colourful heirloom tomatoes will make this cheesy tart a stunner for your summer gathering.
As temperatures climb into the 30 Cs, it’s time to look westward to see how people in hotter climates eat. Los Angelesbased recipe blogger Gaby Dalkin, who has been running her What’s Gaby Cooking site since 2009 and has an Instagram following of more than 370,000 followers, just released her debut cookbook to spread the goodness of California cooking.
What’s Gaby Cooking ($38, Abrams) contains more than 125 fairly easy recipes geared to the novice home cook who wants lighter fare for the summer and to use up seasonal produce (much of the ingredients in the book, such as stone fruits, berries, corn and tomato, just happen to be available right now in Ontario). By California cuisine, we’re talking salads, a heavy reliance on citrus fruits and dishes inspired by its culinary regions — veggie fajitas with guacamole, baja (fish tacos) plus a few Korean-influ- enced dishes such as baby-back ribs and a beef bowl. Fresh, easy to put together and colourful — perfect for summer. While this book includes a few culinary trends, such as using cauliflower rice with grilled fish and throwing quinoa and sweet potato in a chili, it mostly avoids the hippydippy stereotypes outsiders have of California cuisine. Yes, there are smoothie and avocado toast recipes, but Dalkin keeps them short and limited to a page or two as a way to acknowledge their role in shaping California cuisine. There’s so much more her state has to offer.
Heirloom Tomato Tart
Star Tested
Ontario is in peak tomato season, so head to the farmers market for heirloom tomatoes, the multicoloured striped and spotted tomatoes that come in odd shapes and sizes. This savoury cheese tart perfectly highlights these beauties. If you can’t find their heirloom variety, the regular supermarket ones are fine. I left the finished tart in the fridge for a few hours after making it and the tart shell remained flaky so this can be made ahead of time for weekend brunch. It’s important to let the crust cool completely before taking it out of the pan, as the pastry is delicate and easily shatters (but it’s oh so flaky and buttery).
This isn’t in the book but if you’re super lazy and want a fast, no-bake version, get a premade, nonsweetened tart shell and just make the filling and toppings.
Also not in the book: I topped my tart with chopped, crispy bacon and it was divine. For the tart shell 3 tbsp (45 mL) pine nuts 1-1/4 cups (310 mL) all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling Pinch of kosher salt 1/2 cup (125 mL) cold unsalted butter, cut into small chunks 2 tbsp (30 mL) cold water, plus more as necessary In a small skillet over medium heat, toss pine nuts until lightly fragrant and lightly toasted, careful not to burn.
Remove from heat and let cool. Pulverize pine nuts in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Add to a large mixing bowl with flour and salt. Mix to combine. Add in butter. Using hands, mix everything together until butter becomes pea-sized balls. Add water and mix until a dough forms. If dough is too dry, add a bit more water. Dough should not be sticky or too moist. Shape dough into a disk. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Remove dough from fridge. Turn dough on to a clean, lightly floured surface or between two sheets of parchment paper. With a rolling pin, roll dough into a 12-inch (30.5-cm) circle. Drape dough onto a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, allowing 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) to hang over edge. Pinch hanging dough into edge of pan. Prick bottom of tart all over with a fork. Place pan in freezer for 15 minutes. Preheat oven to 400 F (200 C). Place pan on a baking sheet. Line tart shell with parchment paper or foil. Fill with dried beans, baking weights or sugar. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove parchment or foil with beans, weights or sugar and bake for another 20 to 25 minutes, or until crust is golden brown.
Remove from oven. Let cool on a wire rack completely before adding filling. For the filling and topping 1 cup (250 mL) ricotta cheese 1/2 cup (125 mL) room temperature cream cheese 1/2 cup (125 mL) grated pecorino cheese Zest of 1 lemon
1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped basil leaves, plus more for garnish 1 tsp (5 mL) finely chopped oregano leaves, plus more for garnish Pine nuts, for garnish Kosher salt and pepper, to taste 3 cups (750 mL) heirloom cherry tomatoes, halved 1/2 finely sliced shallot 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil 2 tsp (10 mL) balsamic vinegar In a large mixing bowl, fold together ricotta, cream cheese, pecorino, lemon zest, lemon juice, basil and oregano with a rubber spatula. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour cheese mixture into centre of cooled tart crust and smooth out with an offset spatula. Set aside.
In a small skillet over medium heat, toss pine nuts until lightly fragrant and lightly toasted, careful not to burn. Remove from heat. Let cool.
In a bowl, gently toss tomatoes, shallots, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place on top of cheese mixture. Garnish with more basil and oregano leaves and toasted pine nuts.
Serve immediately or refrigerate for a few hours before serving.
Makes 6 to 8 servings. Cook This Book is a bi-weekly column that looks at the latest cookbooks hitting the stands.