DOES A WINE’S TEXTURE MATTER? YES, IT DOES
Whether you’re drawn to crushed velvet Cabernet Sauvignon, cool and silky Pinot Grigio, or creamy-rich oaked Chardonnay, one thing is certain: a wine’s texture matters as much as its flavour. And every wine style has its hallmark mouthfeel. Experience the diversity yourself with these five quintessential examples, each of which offers outstanding value for money.
Silky 2017 Two Oceans Pinot Grigio, South Africa (AB: Various locations; BC: BC Liquor Stores 267922 $9.29 till July 28, reg. $10.29; NS: NSLC 1011459 $12.99; ON: LCBO 295022 $10.35)
Barely-there aromas of stone fruit lead to a silky wash of apricot, lemon zest and a whisper of white flowers that feels glossy and cool — like it’s been polished to a high sheen. Pour this Pinot Grigio with confidence all summer long, chilled down, with all sorts of grilled finger foods as well as spicy noodle dishes. Or serve it on its own as a cocktail alternative.
Score: 91
Plush 2015 Joel Gott 815 Cabernet Sauvignon, California (AB: Various locations; BC: independent merchants only; NS: NSLC 1012323 $29.99; ON: LCBO 444059 $24.95)
I’ve recommended this wine before, but it warrants a mention here for its exemplary expression of Cabernet Sauvignon’s plush texture. In fact, this bottle’s velvety mouthfeel no doubt contributes to its wild popularity. Expect a saturated crush of berry-rich fruit threaded with smoke, cedar, brown sugar and spice that lingers for ages. Just delicious. I recently had a bottle with grilled burgers with bacon, and the wine sung.
Score: 93 carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com
Grippy 2014 Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (AB: Various locations; BC: BC Liquor Stores 20214 $36.99; NS: NSLC 1001240 $37.00; ON: LCBO 20214 $29.80)
Don’t let its pale appearance fool you into thinking it’s smooth and easy-drinking; this wine is pure Nebbiolo — Piedmont’s grape variety known for its tart-and-tannic texture. Here, archetypal aromas and flavours of tar and roses, dried plum and sour cherries are held in place by a grip that tugs at the tongue and dries the gums. Barolo is not easy; it will challenge you. But pay attention and you’ll notice balance, elegance and delicacy. The experience is subtle — but deeply alluring. And wild mushroom risotto is a perfect match. Note: 2014 available in B.C. once the 2013 now on shelves sells out.
Score: 90
Creamy 2016 Cupcake Chardonnay, Monterey County, California (AB: Various locations; BC: BC Liquor Stores 143776 $13.99; NS: NSLC 1011040 $17.00; ON: LCBO 230821 $15.95)
While unwooded Chardonnay tastes quite crisp and bracing, oak transforms it. The wine becomes creamier and richer, with flavours we associate with those textures as well such as nuts, buttered toast and custard. Here, the oak creates the impression of vanilla layer cake — a nicely browned sponge slathered with vanilla buttercream — but dry, not sweet. And the creamy mouthfeel is reined in by taut acidity, so it’s well-balanced and easy to enjoy. Great with fettuccine Alfredo or buttered popcorn.
Score: 89+
Viscous NV Taylor Fladgate 10-YearOld Tawny Port, Douro, Portugal (AB: Various locations; BC: BC Liquor Stores 121749 $39.99; NS: NSLC 1000537 $37.99; ON: LCBO 121749 $30.95 till July 22, reg. $35.95)
If you enjoy the almost viscous weight of a fortified wine, keep this bottle handy. Aged for 10 years in wood, it starts with cherry-almond-toffee aromas and then erupts on the palate with a vibrant rush of flavour. Warm walnut-toffee-orange-fig complexity is shot through with bright red fruits. The effect is the perfect balance of sweet viscosity and palate-cleansing acidity. Opt for a glass after dinner with a few nuts and a nibble of cheese.
Score: 92