EAST MEETS SOUTH IN BACKYARD BBQ
Smoky southern grilling with traditional Chinese ingredients will surprise and delight
Food writer Karon Liu mixes Chinese ingredients with low ‘n’ slow southern grilling for yummy results,
There’s a huge difference between Chinese barbecue and barbecue from the southern United States. The former uses high heat in giant vertical, typically gas ovens, to crisp and caramelize meat while the latter uses a low-and-slow approach, along with aromatic woods and heavy sauces to infuse flavour.
I thought it would be a fun experiment to combine the two in a summer backyard barbecue. Using ingredients commonly found in Chinese cooking, namely tofu and pork necks slathered in a char siu (Chinese barbecue pork) glaze, I smoked them low and slow in a charcoal grill with applewood chips to infuse the food with the aroma associated with southern cooking. Both tofu and pork necks do best under low heat, so when using a charcoal grill, wait until the charcoals turn into embers and the flames have died down (or else everything will burn). When using wood chips, soak them in water for 30 minutes before placing around the grill so they last longer.
Grilled Pork Neck with Char Siu Sauce
Star Tested
Pork neck (also called pork collar or neck end) is a marbled, flavourful, fatty triangular cut of muscle that my mom has been grilling for years. If you’re a fan of charcuterie, odds are you’ve tasted it in the form of coppa or capocollo. It’s not wellknown in North American supermarkets so you may have to go to a Chinese supermarket to find them. It’s still a relatively affordable cut since it hasn’t hit the masses in terms of popularity. Pork necks cook up fast and are best cooked over very low or indirect heat. If you can’t find pork neck, substitute with spare ribs, though they might require a longer cooking time. 1/4 cup (60 mL) hoisin sauce 1/4 cup (60 mL) light Chinese soy sauce 2 tbsp (30 mL) honey, plus more for basting 1 tsp (5 mL) five spice powder 3 finely minced garlic cloves 2 lbs (900 g) pork neck In a large mixing bowl, whisk together hoisin, soy sauce, honey, five spice and garlic. Add pork neck. Mix with hands to make sure everything is coated with sauce. Let marinate for 30 minutes. Set up a charcoal grill, allowing flames to die down and charcoal to turn into glowing white embers. Place soaked applewood chips around embers. Place meat on grill. Cover with lid for 8 to 10 minutes, allowing meat to absorb smoke flavours and cook slowly. Flip over necks and brush with honey. Cover and continue to smoke until fully cooked and ends are slightly charred, another 8 to 10 minutes.
Makes 6 servings.
Applewood Smoked Tofu in Peking-Style Baos
Star Tested
Tofu doesn’t get much love when it comes to grilling, mostly because people are afraid that they’ll fall apart on the grill. The key is to use firm, not silken, tofu, cut in 1/2 inch slices so it holds up under the heat. Keeping the grill clean and well-oiled will prevent sticking. Like pork neck, tofu benefits from the low and slow cooking method. Cook when the coals turn into embers, and flip occasionally.
Tofu is a great sponge for flavour and in this case it soaked up the aroma of applewood and developed a gorgeous, goldenbrown crispy crust while re- maining soft on the inside. Stronger woods such as hickory, maple or the most pungent of all, mesquite, can be too overpowering for tofu so stick with milder fruit woods.
To play up the fusion theme, I sandwiched the tofu in steamed baos, available in the refrigerated section of Chinese grocers. Steam for 15 minutes and they become pillowy soft.
2 lbs (900 g) firm tofu, sliced into 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) slices Salt and pepper Canola or vegetable oil, to brush on grill 10 to 12 plain Chinese steamed baos Small dish of hoisin sauce for serving Fresh cilantro, green onion, cucumber and carrots, julienne-cut for garnish Firmly press tofu in paper towels to absorb excess liquid. Season generously with salt and pepper.
Set up a charcoal grill, allowing flames to die down and charcoal to turn into glowing white embers. Place soaked applewood chips around embers.
Brush grill with a paper towel lightly dipped in oil. Place tofu on grill and cover with lid, checking at 10 minute mark. Flip when underside develops grill marks and a crispy texture with a golden brown colour. Replace cover. Continue to smoke for another 10 to 15 minutes until underside is crispy and golden brown. Transfer to platter. Serve with steamed baos, hoisin and garnishes.
Makes 6 servings.
Cucumber and Lotus Root Salad
Star Tested
Lotus root, the stem of the lotus flower, is a staple Chinese vegetable used in stir-fries, soups and with braised meats. It’s mildly sweet with a watery crunch with a texture similar to water chestnuts or daikon. Here, it’s added as a spin on traditional smashed cucumber salad often found as an appetizer at Szechuan restaurants. The result is refreshingly crisp, with a hint of heat from the chilies and a warm, vinegary bite from the five-spice vinaigrette.
Lotus root is commonly found at Chinese grocers year-round. It looks like a thick, light brown tube (sometimes two smaller ones are attached to each other like sausage links). Look for those that appear heavy for their size, with no discolouration or soft spots. If you cannot find lotus root, substitute chopped water chestnuts or raw slices of jicama.
2 cucumbers, cut into thin sticks
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/4 cup (60 mL) white vinegar, for preserving lotus root
1/3 cup (80 mL) rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar
2 t bsp (30 mL) neutral-flavoured oil such as canola or avocado
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp (20 mL) honey or agave syrup
1 tsp (5 mL) five spice powder
1-2 red Thai chilies, minced
1 lb (450 g) lotus root, washed and peeled
Sesame oil, to taste
Fresh cilantro, sesame seeds, dry-roasted and unsalted peanuts, for garnish
In a large serving bowl, add cucumbers. Season with salt. Let rest for 15 to 30 minutes. Drain off excess liquid before use.
Fill a large mixing bowl with cold water and white vinegar. Set aside.
To make dressing, whisk together rice vinegar, oil, honey, five spice powder, chilies, salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary. Set aside.
Slice lotus root crosswise into 1/4-inch rounds. Submerge rounds in vinegar water to prevent browning.
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add lotus root and blanch until slightly tender but still crunchy about 3 to 4 minutes. Strain water with colander. Rinse lotus under cold water. Drain well so excess water does not get into salad.
In a salad bowl just before serving, toss lotus root with dressing. Garnish with sesame oil, cilantro, sesame seeds and peanuts. Adjust seasoning to taste.
Serve immediately or can be refrigerated for a few hours before serving.
Makes 6 servings.