Raise a glass to summertime
We serve up three great recipes that will go perfect with your bottle of chilled Chardonnay
Summertime is the perfect time for a chilled glass of Chardonnay. The light fruity, crispy and citrusy flavours pair well with dishes we crave in hot weather months: seafood, light pastas and fresh in-season vegetables.
The white wine, named after the grape variety that originated in France’s Burgundy region, is also great for cooking.
It is not too sugary and won’t caramelize or add an unwanted sweetness to a dish; nor is it so full-bodied that it overpowers.
After wine writer Carolyn Evans Hammond’s return from the Chardonnay festival in Niagara with her recommendations, we came together to create an ideal summer dinner pairing — blinis, clam linguine, green beans and a choice of five fine Ontario Chardonnays.
Ina Garten’s Blinis With Smoked Salmon
Star Tested
Famed cookbook author Ina Garten’s blini batter yields a fluffy, golden little pancake that’s excellent for any sweet or savoury topping.
I top the blinis with crème fraîche, smoked salmon and chives to give a salty, briny, oily and slightly tart taste (sour cream is a bit too sour) to balance out the delicate acidity of Chardonnay. You can freeze blinis made ahead of time and warm them up before serving. These are quick and easy to prepare — basically, you’re making a bunch of tiny pancakes.
Clarified butter is butter with its milk proteins and water removed, which allows it to cook at higher temperatures without burning, perfect for cooking blinis in a hot pan. To make your own, melt butter in a small pan over medium-low heat and bringing it to a simmer. This allows the water to evaporate and milk proteins to foam up, solidify and sink to the bottom. When the butter stops bubbling, it’s a sign that most of the water is gone. Strain out the browned bits of milk solids through a cheesecloth and you’re left with clarified butter. Or use ghee, available at most grocery stores. 1/3 cup (80 mL) buckwheat flour 2/3 cup (160 mL) all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp (2 mL) baking powder 3/4 tsp (3 mL) kosher salt 3/4 cup plus 2 tbsp (215 mL) 2 per cent milk 1 large egg 3 tbsp (45 mL) clarified butter or ghee, plus more as needed 5-1/2 oz (155 g) smoked salmon 1/2 cup (125 mL) crème fraîche Fresh chives, for garnish In a large mixing bowl, whisk together both flours, baking powder and salt. Set aside.
In another bowl, whisk together milk, egg and 1 tablespoon clarified butter. Whisk into flour mixture until smooth.
Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon clarified butter. When pan is hot, add blini batter, 1 tablespoon at a time, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart from each other. When bubbles form on top side of blini, about 1 to 2 minutes, flip and cook for another minute until both sides are golden. Repeat with remaining batter. Add more clarified butter to pan as needed. Wipe pan of any cooked batter before making next batch.
Place cooked blinis on a serving platter. Top with pieces of smoked salmon, a small dollop of crème fraîche and chives be- fore serving immediately. Makes 20 to 24 blinis.
Classic Clam Linguine
Star Tested
Seafood is the most commonly recommended food pairing with Chardonnay because its relatively light flavours won’t overshadow the citrusy wine. Littleneck clams steamed in a buttery, slightly peppery sauce then tossed with linguine are perfect for any summertime meal, and they look impressive when served in a big pot.
When buying fresh clams, head to a reputable and busy fishmonger. Fresh clams should have closed shells and no funky aroma. If the shell is open, give it a tap and it should close. (If it doesn’t, it’s dead. Toss it.) Live clams should be cooked within two days and are best stored in a single layer and covered with a damp cloth in the fridge. They will suffocate if kept in a plastic bag. Before cooking, soak clams in cold water for about 20 minutes to remove sand, then scrub shells. 1/4 cup (60 mL) unsalted butter 6 small shallots, thinly sliced 6 finely minced garlic cloves 1/2 tsp (2 mL) each kosher salt and pepper 1/4 tsp (1 mL) chili flakes 2 tbsp (30 mL) lemon juice Zest of 1 lemon 1/2 cup (125 mL) dry white wine (an unoaked Chardonnay works) 5 lbs (2.2 kg) littleneck clams, rinsed and scrubbed of sand 1 lb (450 g) dried linguine pasta Handful torn parsley leaves In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, melt butter over medium heat. When butter starts bubbling, add shallots, garlic, salt, pepper, chili flakes, lemon juice and zest. Sauté until shallots and garlic soften and begin to turn golden brown, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add wine. Using a wooden spoon, scrape any bits of garlic and shallots from bottom of pot. Let simmer until mixture reduces by half and alcohol taste has mostly cooked off. Add clams. Stir. Cover with lid and continue to cook over medium heat for about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove lid. Clams are cooked when shells are opened. If not all open, replace lid and steam a few more minutes. When clams are cooked, transfer to a large bowl, leaving liquid in pot. Turn off heat.
In a separate large pot, bring salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook pasta until al dente according to package instructions. Drain pasta, setting aside 1 cup of pasta water.
Transfer cooked pasta to pot with clam sauce. Turn heat on to medium-low. Using tongs, toss noodles until coated with sauce. If pasta is too dry, add a bit of reserved pasta water. Return clams to pot. Sprinkle generously with parsley. Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings.
Buttery Green Beans
Star Tested
Green beans are in season and their crisp, slightly watery crunch pairs nicely with Chardonnay. Blanching the beans locks in the colour and tenderizes the inside without overcooking the outside. 2 tbsp (30 mL) slivered almonds 1-1/2 lbs (680 g) green beans, washed and ends trimmed 2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice Kosher salt and pepper, to taste Thinly sliced lemon, for garnish In a small skillet over mediumlow heat, toast almonds, shaking pan constantly to prevent burning. Remove from heat when almonds become aromatic and golden. Set aside.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add beans. Boil for 2 minutes. Drain. Rinse beans with cold tap water until cool. Drain well.
In a large skillet over medium heat, add butter. When butter starts to sizzle, add beans. Cook until tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Add lemon juice, salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving plate. Garnish with almonds and sliced lemon. Serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings.