CHILL OUT WITH MADE IN ONTARIO CHARDONNAY

Ontario produces some truly world-class Chardonnay thanks to its cool climate and limestone-rich soils. The cool climate helps the wine retain a beautiful ribbon of mouth-watering acidity; and the limestone creates depth, focus and a note of minerality that tastes of wet stones, flint or salt. Sometimes, the Chardonnay is oaked, which can imbue the wine with a lovely toasty-nutty note that lingers on the finish. Chardonnay is absolutely one of Ontario’s top white varieties. As a tribute to cool climate Chardonnay, Niagara hosts the annual International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in July. This year, 42 Chardonnays from 23 Ontario wineries were poured at the event, which I attended to scout some brilliant bottles. Here are five of the best

2016 Rosehall Run JCR Estate Chardonnay, VQA Prince Edward County (Available at the winery; LCBO Vintages 326512 $34.95)

This stellar example of pure “county” Chardonnay starts with sumptuous scents of apple tart and toasty oak that lead to a seamless entry. It’s wooded, yes, but the French oak merely folds into the cool-taut citrus-scented Chardonnay, creating soft allusions of crème brûlée, taffy apple, hazelnut and toast. On the finish, a slight mineral grip tastes gently salty-flinty and lingers. This intense, bone-dry white with great freshness, focus, and finesse is Rosehall Run’s top Chardonnay. Instantly captivating.

Score: 93

2015 Adamo Willms Vineyard Oaked Chardonnay, VQA Niagara-onthe-Lake (Available at the winery; LCBO Vintages 459073 $31.35)

Although the fruit for this bottle hails from Niagara-on-theLake, the winery itself is adjacent to Hockley Valley Resort, one hour north of Toronto. In fact, Adamo might be the best winery you’ve never heard of; it’s relatively new, dedicated to small-batch winemaking, and has been earning national and international accolades lately. Taste this saturated Chardonnay to see what the fuss is about. The silky-rich core of citrus and poached pear is tempered with mouth-watering acidity, while toasty-nutty underpinnings lend interest to each sip. Just lovely. Score: 92

2016 Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula (Available at the winery; select grocery stores; LCBO Vintages Essential 286278 $19.95)

I do like what Flat Rock Cellars is doing with Chardonnay — and this widely available bottle shows why. It starts with slightly smoky-stony-citrus scents before slipping smoothly over the tongue with lively, linear flavours of grapefruit zest and lime oil laced with a roasted nuttiness from the nine months spent in French oak. There’s a delicacy and high-toned acidity here, which are hallmarks of cool-climate Chardonnay; but that structure is balanced by midpalate weight and concentration creating sensuous satisfaction. Solid value.

Score: 90

2016 Stratus Weather Report Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula (Available at the winery; LCBO Vintages 560904 $28.20)

Barely-there aromas of cool steel lead to a racy beam of flavour that quickly evolves in the mouth to reveal a calm, delicate creaminess. Subtle notes of apricot, white flowers and buttered toast emerge before giving way to olive brine, Brazil nut and oyster shell notes. Quite an understated and stylish-tasting Chardonnay with intriguing complexity, plunging acidity, a long, languid finish of sea salt and wet stones. Outstanding value for money.

Score: 92+

NV Trius Brut Rosé, VQA Niagara Peninsula (Available at the Wine Shop, the winery, LCBO Vintages 184309 $32.95) Though not pure

Chardonnay, this wine is well worth a mention. It’s a stunningly delicious blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Gamay that shines pale salmon in colour, is shot through with the tiniest bubbles, and tastes truly lit from within with vibrant but eloquent flavours of lemon curd, baked apples and Grandma’s strawberry rhubarb pie — with a fetching little sprinkle of sea salt somewhere. Dry, elegant and impeccably balanced, this is a wine to snap up by the case.

Score: 97