DRY WINES RATE HIGH ON PLEASURE, LOW ON SUGAR

A couple of readers asked how to determine the sugar content in wine. It’s relatively straightforward if you know where to look. In Ontario, go to the wine’s product page at LCBO.com and scroll down; you’ll see the sugar content in grams per litre. If you’re buying wine from elsewhere, ask the retailer, agent or winery — they should know. In the meantime, those limiting their sugar intake can take pleasure in these five dry wines with 2g/L of sugar or less.

2017 Terres de Saint-Louis Rosé, Coteaux varois en Provence AOC, France (LCBO 234575 $13.20 in stores and online)

Bone dry and Grenache-based, this Provençal rosé draws you in with its pretty perfume of cherries and nougat. Then, it slips over that palate with a smooth sweep of cool as fleeting flavours of lemon zest, white blossoms, cherries, strawberry, apricot and nougat unwind and linger. Light and elegant with a certain rosy-taut appeal, this wine works well with or without food. It’s particularly enchanting with chicken liver paté on slices of toasted baguette. Total find. Score: 91

2007 Rioja Bordon Gran Reserva, Rioja DOCa, Spain (LCBO 428060 $26.35 in stores and online)

If you’re into complex, mature reds from Rioja, this 10-year-old red in its prime is an outstanding buy — and bone dry to boot. Deep aromas of black cherries, cola, warm leather and poached plums lead to a thunderclap entry that draws to mind crushed blackberries, tumbling black earth, bitter chocolate shavings and fresh espresso. The dark core is lifted with a tart cherry juiciness while a tongueteasing tug of tannin lends a textural appeal and gravitas. Smart wine to pour with flavourful meats such as braised short rib. Score: 93

2017 Ogier Côtes du Ventoux Rosé, Rhône, France (LCBO 134916 $14.75 in stores and online)

This subtly expressive blend of Grenache and Syrah offers considerable poise and purity. Coral-toned and shatteringly fresh, this bone-dry rosé from the Rhône offers shiny-cool flavours of ruby grapefruit, ripe apricot and strawberry — all understated, harmonious and lively. In fact, there’s a little tapas-style restaurant near me that offers it by the glass, and it’s always my go-to choice. It’s the perfect foil for Montreal smoked meat sliders, grilled calamari or fried shrimp tacos — enhancing rather than overpowering every bite. Score: 91

2017 La Vieille Ferme Blanc, Côtes du Luberon AOC, France (LCBO 298505 $12.75 in stores and online)

I’ve recommended this wine before, but it deserves another mention because it is indeed bone dry and offers exceptional value for money. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc and Vermentino from the south of France, it cascades with subtle notes of yellow plum, white flowers, nectarine and mixed citrus that taper to a long, misty mineral and sea spray finish. Restrained, polished and delicate, this wine goes with pretty much anything you care to serve with it — though my suggestion would be goat cheese salad sprinkled with walnuts. Score: 92

Tio Pepe Extra Dry Fino, Gonzalez Byass, Jerez, Spain (LCBO 231829 $18.10 in stores and online)

Tio Pepe is a classic expression of fino — the driest and palest style of Sherry. It’s a fortified white wine aged for at least five years under layer of “flor” — a natural yeast film. The process creates the style’s signature tang and resonant complexity. Expect coy nuances of hotfrom-the-oven bread, citrus oil, salted almonds, lemon zest, white flowers and olive brine that seems to slide across and saturate the palate rather than scrape it clean. This crazy dry, low-acid wine comes to life with salty-fatty foods such as Marcona almonds, Spanish olives or thin slices of Iberico ham. Very stylish pour. Score: 90