Second life for Saratoga Springs showpiece
A $28-million renovation makes Adelphi Hotel the perfect fit in N.Y. city
Adelphi Hotel
Saratoga Springs, N.Y. 365 Broadway; theadelphihotel.com
Rates
Rooms recently started at $384 (U.S.) a night. Prices spike during thoroughbred racing season in the second half of the summer, as they do all over town.
Basics
The $28-million makeover of the showpiece hotel downtown, the Adelphi, took five years and was a source of much curiosity in the celebrated spa and gambling refuge. The Victorian-era hotel had been showing its age and was closed for much of its renovation before reopening last October. For fans of the old Adelphi, which had an Agatha Christie novel vibe and a lush and mysterious interior courtyard, both are gone. But the new version has many winning points, starting with its well-restored, column-lined exterior facade and second-floor porch. The hotel extends over much of a block and has respected the heritage of the building while making it new again. From the street, it’s a perfect fit for Saratoga Springs.
Location
As good as it gets in downtown Saratoga, with its long porch overlooking Broadway. Numerous bars and restaurants are a quick walk away, and both the city’s venerable thoroughbred racetrack and its much newer casino — technically a “racino” that allows slot machines but not table games with dealers — are a short drive. But Adelphi’s location is a trade-off. Downtown is often rowdy on summer weekends. It is also planning to reinforce the glass in rooms close to the pub, though those on the other side of the hotel would be a quieter bet. Not that everyone will be seeking a silent night in a gambler’s town.
The room
A basic premier double on the second floor was a comfortable, if compact, room with many nice touches: a door stop in the shape of a horse’s head, dragonflies on the light fixtures, the obligatory blue-bottled Saratoga waters and leather headboards.
The bathroom
Attention was lavished on the enormous bathroom, which is almost as big as the room itself. There was a deep oval tub for soaking, a long marble-topped double sink and a spacious shower. The centrepiece, however, was the toilet, which was upgraded with a Toto Washlet, an electronic bidet that turns a conventional toilet into something more ... interactive. Yes, it is a toilet with a remote control and spurting water, Japanese style. I watched some YouTube videos to get the hang of it.
Amenities
Nods to history are throughout. There are framed prints of balls at Saratoga’s long-gone Grand Union, once one of the largest hotels in the world. There were also round marble-top tables, a settee here, a chaise longue there and a deep blue circular couch in the lobby. My favourite spot was the “Library” on the second floor, which offers velvet and leather chairs, and board games such as Parcheesi and Trivial Pursuit. (It cannot be used if another guest has reserved the 2,100-square-foot Owner’s Box, which can set you back more than $2,700 a night during track season.)
Dining
The Adelphi has two restaurants, Salt & Char and the Blue Hen. A bar is named after John Morrissey, the Irish-born bareknuckle boxer and congressman who was the main developer of the city’s racetrack. The restaurants require reservations, sometimes days in advance. If the hotel’s renovation has misses, it is the somewhat bland decor of Blue Hen and two nearby patios. Salt & Char, where a 12-ounce strip goes for $52, is the more inviting option.
The bottom line
As a former Saratogian, I am partial to the city and its rakish charms. The Adelphi is a good spot to spend a night or stop in for a drink after a day at the track.