Toronto Star

A rare glimpse into Macron’s palace

Presidenti­al estate is a main attraction for European heritage event

- SYLVIE CORBET

PARIS— The French presidenti­al wine cellar holds 14,000 bottles regarded as so precious, few people are even allowed to enter the room. Flower bouquets are displayed at the presidenti­al palace only for a couple of hours so they always look fresh. And the president’s chefs use 150year-old copper pans.

These and other behind-thescenes quirks of the Elysee Palace are getting a rare airing this weekend, when the home of French presidents since 1848 opens its heavy and usually tightly closed doors to a small but lucky group of ordinary citizens.

On Saturday and Sunday, a few hundred people were visiting the undergroun­d kitchen, cellar and florist rooms.

They were able to buy souvenirs from a new boutique to help finance palace renovation­s expected to cost 100 million euros ($117 million) over the next seven years. Across France, other usually closed sites are also opening their doors for the weekend as part of European Heritage Days.

Under President Emmanuel Macron’s office and the Elysee’s 18th-century golden reception rooms is an undergroun­d world where a small battalion of workers makes the whole place tick. They labour out of sight in a maze of austere corridors and narrow rooms with artificial light and grey and beige walls.

Every morning, the basement comes to life when fresh produce, fish and meats are delivered to the kitchen and checked for quality. Most of the food — except items like coffee and chocolate — is sourced in France.

The kitchen staff of 28 people, plus apprentice­s, serves 92,000-95,000 meals per year. They cook daily for Macron and his wife Brigitte and for some Elysee employees, and handle official dinners, big events like receptions at the Chateau of Versailles west of Paris and prepare in-flight meals for the presidenti­al plane.

Presidenti­al tastes and menus remain one of the best kept se- crets of the Elysee. Chef Guillaume Gomez wouldn’t answer questions about the Macrons’ meals. The French leader once said his favourite dish is blanquette de veau, a traditiona­l veal stew in creamy white sauce.

“Unlike a restaurant, we work on a daily basis with the seasons, the activity and news events of the president,” he said.

The basement kitchen used to be a horse stable; it was convert- ed at the end of the 19th century and renovated in 1989.

A full set of copper pots and pans from 1845-1865 hang on the wall and are used daily. Gomez said the copper would corrode if the pans were idle.

“If it’s not used — heated, cooled down, heated, cooled down — it dies,” he said.

Plus, buying a modern stainless steel replacemen­t set would cost several hundred thousand euros.

From the kitchen, a dark corridor leads to one of the most protected places of the Elysee: the wine cellar.

A first room presents a selection of classic wines for working lunches and dinners and a selection of aperitif drinks. The second cellar, much bigger, is protected by a locked door. Higher quality bottles are stocked there and visitors are banned from entering.

The head sommelier’s mission is to select wines that fit with the chef’s menu and to buy the finest vintages to replace them: exclusivel­y French, of course.

The multiple undergroun­d corridors seem like a labyrinth to outsiders.

But the smell of flowers points the way to the florists’ rooms.

About 340 people registered on the Elysee website to visit the palace.

 ?? ANNE CHRISTINE POUJOULAT THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? People queue to visit the Elysee Palace in Paris on Saturday. The national buildings and administra­tions of France are open to the public for Heritage Days weekend.
ANNE CHRISTINE POUJOULAT THE ASSOCIATED PRESS People queue to visit the Elysee Palace in Paris on Saturday. The national buildings and administra­tions of France are open to the public for Heritage Days weekend.
 ?? ANNE CHRISTINE POUJOULAT THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? Emmanuel Macron poses for a selfie with fans during the open house event on Saturday.
ANNE CHRISTINE POUJOULAT THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Emmanuel Macron poses for a selfie with fans during the open house event on Saturday.

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